Table for One
From The Great Escape in Pokhara, Nepal on Dec 01 '06
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After the yoga retreat, I decided to do a bit of travelling in Nepal by myself. This was the first time I have ever travelled alone without a real plan or a time line. I had the flexibility to go wherever. And so I embarked on this journey with a bit of excitement and anxiety. I eased into my traveling by heading off to Chitwan National Park with a girl I had met at the yoga retreat.
My perception of Chitwan National Park was that it would be similar to a zoo. The numerous Chitwan advertisements of animals gave me the impression that we'd be walking through a zoo of sorts and it didn't spark my interest terribly much.
If we encounter a rhino, look for the nearest tree and climb
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I quickly realized I was wrong in the first 5 minute of our jungle walk when our guide gave us the safety instructions. "If we encounter a rhino, look for the nearest tree and climb. If we encounter a bear, gather together. If we see an elephant, RUN." He never gave us the directions if we encountered a tiger probably because it would be a lost cause anyways. It was then that I realized I am in no zoo. This is the jungle and I am roaming around with uncaged wild animal which consider humans a yummy snack. My eagerness to see wildlife lessen at that point.
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We did a lot of things in Chitwan but my most memorable time was bathing with the elephant. It wasn't really bathing, more like playing with elephants. Of course, I had to be careful as these elephants weight more then 100 times more than me and I would be in serious trouble if they decide to cuddle.
After Chitwan, I decided to visit this village that claims to offer an unimpeded view of the Himalayan range from Mt. Dhaulagiri to Everest. It was a place that no tourist I had met have heard off and only some locals have heard about. It was partly this isolation that drew me to it. So with the bare minimal directions I got, I left Chitwan. The directions I had received was, "Go to the main highway, flag a bus to Hetauda and then flag another bus on the road to Daman". Not the most explicit directions.
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In the early morning, the hotel jeep dropped me on the highway and I got on local bus to Hetauda. Sitting on the bus filled with local men, I couldn't help but wonder ... "Where the hell am I going?" Luckily I safely arrived at Daman after two transfers.
Daman was indeed not a tourist place. The accommodation were few and the number of tourist less than a handful. I choose to stay at this hotel with rooms that reminded me of a prison cell.
I was nervous at night, but I got a good vibe from the owner and her son turned out to be my guide for two days. Daman was indeed beautiful, it had a spectacular view of the Himalayas. The sunrise over the range was breathtaking. After two nights of no window accommodation, I packed my bags and headed to back Pokhara.
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Pokhara is a hippy town set next to the Himalayan mountains and lake. The comfortable and relaxing atmosphere makes it a place I could stay for days. I spent most of the day reading, chatting with other fellow travellers, roaming the streets filled with artsy goods and having a good time.
All was good till I got really sick. Being sick at home is bad, but being sick in a foreign country is terrible, and being alone made it absolutely miserable. I don't know what it was. I had an eye infection, was vomiting all day and at night my throat felt like it was closing or blocked off, I had trouble breathing. As I laid in bed in that tiny hotel room that night, I felt really scared for the first time in three weeks. I tried to stay awake all night because I was afraid of sleeping. The next day, I decided to leave Pokhara for Kathmandu (where Len is staying) as soon as I get better.
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So now here I am, back with my other half. Travelling alone definitely had it's advantages: meeting people, stepping beyond personal boundaries. I found that when one travels alone, one becomes a bit braver. So in the three weeks, I experienced something new - paragliding, something I wouldn't have consider before - renting a scooter, and a bit of a scared at the end - sick and alone in a hotel room.
But I am definitely glad to be back with Lenny and not have to worry about walking home at night in the lightless streets of Nepal.
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Wishing all of you a Happy Holiday!
Jenn
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