Tale of Two Cities

"It might be impossible to go to Israel without preconceptions. It is a land that has been plagued with controversy and conflict since its inception. So what is it really like? Well, we can't really tell you that. We were only able to see a couple of areas(all Israeli, no Palestinian). What we did see, however, was very interesting.

Our first stop was Jerusalem. It is fascinating that this is the only city in the world that America has two consulates (it is curious that we recognize Israel but not Jerusalem as the capital). The two main sections of Israeli Jerusalem are the Old City and the New City. The Old City is divided into four quarters: Muslim, Jewish, Christian, and Armenian. It is walled and there are only a couple of streets wide enough for a car. The scene on the street is too much: at times it is a deafening blend of vendors shouting, church bells ringing, the Muslim call to prayer blaring from loud speakers and narrow allies packed with people...while later that afternoon you might walk down the same street and find it completely empty and silent. The history isn't too bad either. The Wailing Wall, Dome of the Rock, and sight of Christ's crucifixion are all within these walls. The New City is a vibrant, modern compliment to the Old City. It resembles a modern European or American city in almost all ways. It is a place where those Israelites seeking a break from the intensity might escape. It also has the vital commercial interests found in all contemporary cities.

We took in the Dead Sea, lowest place on the surface of the earth, on a day trip from Jerusalem. It is filled with something closer to soup than water. This is not caused by pollution but by off-the-charts mineral content. The water is so dense you really do just bob around like an apple. It is a wonderful feeling. Not so wonderful is the feeling of going under, which David tried after giving himself a facial with the mineral rich mud.

The last stop in Israel was Tel Aviv. You really begin to understand the complexity of Israel today when you compare liberal, secular, young Tel Aviv with ancient, conservative, strict Jerusalem. We happened to be there during the Israeli withdraw from the Gaza Strip and had the opportunity to see both sides waving their respective banners. In a land so politically charged it is hard not to have an opinion of your own, and even harder to keep it to yourself."