The Chairman Mao Tribute Tour 2006.

CLAIRE.

Like all great ideas, it started with the death of an earlier one. What we thought would be a week-long holiday was reduced to five days by the powers that be and our original plans were ground into dust and washed away by the perpetual Spring rain that pounded the streets outside and caused minor flooding and havoc on the badly drained sidewalks. A frantic scour of the map of China on the office wall and a hastily patched together ‘alternative’ morphed into what would become ‘The Chairman Mao Tribute Tour, 2006’- an intensive journey into the life and times of the man who would be the closest thing to King this side of the Qing dynasty.

an intensive journey into the life and times of the man who would be the closest thing to King this side of the Qing dynasty.

Who was this man who forever changed the path of China, ushering in sweeping reform and idealistic values, alongside chaos, terror and death on a scale too widespread to fully comprehend? What did I know of this god-like creature whose beaming face smiled down on me in place of the clock from every classroom wall? It is always Mao-time in China. I knew he was a tall man, educated and a product of what can be described as a ‘rich’ peasant upbringing but apart from this everything I knew of Mao Zedong had been gained through text book learning at high school and considered more of his (questionable) political decisions than the actual man himself. Behind the legacy of tacky memorabilia left behind, this was the man we were in search of.

The city of Changsha, provincial capital of Hunan in China’s central south, is revered throughout China as the birthplace of Chairman Mao and the Communist Party. Though Mao’s actual place of birth is Shaoshan, 130 kilometres south-west of Changsha, Changsha still prides itself on the crucial role it played in the early formation and development of the Party. Spread over the Xiang River, Changsha’s recorded history dates back 3000 years and the surrounding land has been the site of many important archeological finds in recent years. The Hunan Provincial Museum provides a thorough examination of the early history of the area (with English signage no less!), with objects dating from the Neolithic Age through to the Tang dynasty (618-907 AD). Of particular interest is the exhibition on the discovery of the Mawangdui Western Han (206 BC- 8 AD) Tomb which houses 2000 year old relics unearthed from three tombs during the 1970s, as well as the remarkably well preserved body and organs of the 2100 year old Xin Zhui, Marquis of Dai.

Born December 26, 1893, Mao spent his formative years in Changsha. After initial schooling in his hometown, Mao attended Changsha’s Hunan No. 1 Teacher’s Training School were he apparently ‘flourished and excelled’ in all studies, ranking number one in every class. The school itself is still in use, though the old ‘Mao’ section has been preserved and maintained as a self-guided tour of the various classrooms and dormitories Mao once inhabited. As a result, students eager to practice their English are more than willing to guide or assist. Rebuilt to its original design after a fire gutted the entire building, the only actual original remaining object is a well outside where Mao once took pleasure in cold bathes to ‘promote a stronger body and mind’.

Sitting in the actual (reconstructed) desk in the actual (reconstructed) classroom that Mao once sat in is surreal, regardless of the question of authenticity. Sitting there in the same way this monolith of Chinese patriotism once sat, all that could run through my mind was ‘Did you ever have any idea, Mao Zedong, of what you would be? Of what you would do for your country? Of the legacy you would leave behind?’. The Mao of posters and countless DVD life-story recreations was slowly becoming more real to me, more intimate and alive. Despite the perfect student record the overzealous signage insisted on, Mao had sat here as a young man and worried over exam marks, fretted over his future and let his mind wander elsewhere when the teacher started to ramble, as they are oft to do. Like the nervous students that wait for me after class to rant and agonize over their progress and understanding, Mao was once young, pimpled and living the Chinese student’s life of high expectations, sleepless nights and an uncertain future. This was a Mao I had never considered before; a Mao stripped of his legend and brought back down to Earth.

The Former Office of the Hunan Communist Party Committee and Former Residence of Mao Zedong is now home to a fantastic little ‘Mao Market’. A bizarre contrast of Chairman Mao, Buddhist and Jesus paraphernalia eclectically line the road, manned by old, squatting, card-playing men. A thought that sits perpetually in the back of my mind whenever I see these markets is ‘What would Mao think?’. Did he ever mean to become idolized and revered as a god-like being or was this all in direct contrast with his teachings, principles and beliefs? The former residence of Mao, his first wife Yang Kaihui and their two sons is confronting in its simplicity yet ideal for conjuring images of a young Mao and his fellow Communists sitting, discussing, debating and prophecizing a future of equality, reform and national unity.

Within the same compounds is a large musuem documenting Mao's early years through old, fuzzy photos and wonderfully, patriotic paintings and images of a strong yet humble Mao accompanied by a determined, confident Yang Kaihui staring into a glorious, immenent future. Whilst there is no English, never before has it been more apparent that a picture really is worth a thousand words. Selections of Mao's calligraphy and poetry are also present. Most striking are the little bits of information about Mao to be picked up along the way from the bored guides, ever-enthusiastic to help. Yang Kuihui was daughter of Mao's former high school teacher and a school teacher herself. Mao married her rather than commit to a marriage arranged for him during his childhood. During the 1930s Mao's wife was executed by the Nationalist Party, as were his two brothers. His eldest son Mao Anying died in action during the Korean War, revealing a much more human element to Mao than is usually considered.

About thirty-five minutes outside of Changsha lies the Lei Feng Memorial Museum. For those unacquanted with this paradigm of Chinese sacrificial pride, Lei Feng was a young man orphaned apparently by cruel Nationalists and greedy landlords. During his short life he became the poster boy for all communists, living a life of compassion and selfless charity. His death in a motor accident at age 22 firmly solidified his place in Chinese history and every year March 5th embraces 'Learn From Lei Feng Day', a day to selflessly help others and encourage national unity and togetherness. The self-proclaimed 'national teenagers' moral education base' and 'patriotism education base of Changsha city and Hunan Province', the museum houses a beautifully designed walk-thru life story of Lei Feng in which his ever-smiling face beams down as he espouses communist ideals to others, helps work the fields, fixes cars, respectfully converses with the elderly and plays with the youth of the future, all whilst convieniently positioned in the centre of the shot, apparently oblivious to the camera's presence.

A short walk from the museum leads to the Former Residence of Lei Feng, a quaint mud-brick house where signs suggest he more or less spent his time selflessly and purposefully. The life of Lei Feng provides an interesting glimpse into the creation of an idol actively pursued by Mao and his party. It is interesting to compare the glorification of Mao and Lei Feng in present-day China where it seems Mao plays the role of revered, adored deity while Lei Feng acts as the more worldy role model for today's youth to strive towards emmulating. I can't help but ponder if the unfortunate premature demise of Lei Feng did more good than bad to the Communist cause in its creation of an eternal martyr.