Naples

The Castel Nuovo
see all photos »

Horror stories abound when it comes to Napoli. We had been warned several times that the over-populated city swarms with pick pockets, driving is a nightmare and the streets are piled high with rubbish. With this in mind we left all our credit cards and valuables (including the car) safely back in Pompei and sheepishly boarded a graffiti-covered train for the 45 minute journey into the unknown.

As you would probably expect, none of our fears were realised and although we were very wary of the people around us in the crowded streets, we both had an enjoyable day. We stayed within the city centre where the rubbish was no worse than we had seen anywhere else.

anyone suffering from claustrophobia would not have been happy

Buildings around Piazza del Plebiscito
see all photos »

We wandered from the train station down to the docks to have a look at the Castel Nuovo, a 13^th century fortress which guards the harbour. The former castle apartments now house several museums and galleries, as well as the city council chambers which are still in use today.

The nearby Piazza del Plebiscito is surrounded by the Palazzo Reale, the Teatro San Carlo (one of the most famous opera houses in the world, unfortunately closed when we were there) and the colossal Basilica di San Fransesco di Paola with its multi-columned foyer.

Typical crowded street in the old town
see all photos »

The streets of the central city were lined with trendy fashion stores and trattorias. We came across an ancient church down every side street. The footpaths were sometimes completely blocked by guys selling imitation Gucci handbags, watches and sunglasses off blankets spread out on the ground.

The highlight of our visit to Naples was the Napoli Sotteranea, a network of underground tunnels which extend for miles under the city streets. The ancient system was originally dug out by the Greeks as a source of stone for the city walls. The Romans then used it for water storage and distribution, but more recently the tunnels had a role as air-raid shelters during WWII. We took a guided tour and at one point had to carry handheld candles through the tight passages. Anyone suffering claustrophobia would not have been happy when you had to take off your backpack and turn sideways to get through. Many of the access shafts and wells still have light coming in from above. We could see the high water mark well up the sides of some of the chambers. The chilly air made a nice change from the stifling heat of the streets above.

Exploring the tight passageways of the Napoli Sotteranea by candle light
see all photos »

Our day was topped off with an authentic Neapolitan pizza in the back streets of the city that reputedly invented it. We both decided that the key was in the fresh pizza base which is handmade each time before going into the clay oven. Pizza back home will never taste the same.