Goodbye Argentina

The harbour of Puerto Natales in the evening
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Our next trekking experience, Torres Del Paine, required a bus journey from Argentina across into Chile. We were still travelling with Dave, which was cool. Crossing the border into Chile as we had already experienced was never gonna be quick and easy. After much queuing we were through, some people had their dried fruits confiscated, it all seemed quite petty but Argentina and Chile have frosty relations so I guess thats why.

So we've arrived in Chile, first impressions are good. Puerto Natales is the gateway to the Torres Del Paine. The place is buzzing with backpackers preparing for trekking. There are loads of trekker equipment and food places. We've heard there is an amazing hostel called Erratic Rock, it's reputation is well deserved for the guys running it know everything there is to know about trekking in the T.D.P. national park. They even run info sessions everyday. Sadly our bus arrived late and we only caught Rustyn's last 5 minutes. Though we managed to persuade him to give us an abbreviated session later. What a legend! Anyway, the friendly staff at Y Keu Ken had messed up our booking for a spot at Erratic Rock, Dave was booked in but at least they helpfully gave us a few alternative options. At this point we're trekking around with all of our stuff, mine weighs at least 25kg. Claire's not much less! So we don't enjoy this bit. We end up in a place done out like a traditional Chilean Ranch, called Gauchos. The owner didn't speak a word of English, grunted a lot and was a true-breed gaucho (he used to be a cowboy and now ran a hostel). The place was empty apart from a friendly German chap called Frank staying in our dorm.

how do you train to survive an avalanche?

Snow capped peaks behind
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We head back to Erratic Rock for the one on one info session that was totally useful and gave us our route and timings in the park. In brief, there are two main treks: The full circuit that takes 7 days and is for the hardcore trekker. Sadly this is verboten coz of avalanche risks. You're only permitted if you can prove you have had avalanche training! (how do you train to survive an avalanche?). The most popular option is to do the W Trek. So called because your route is that shape as you trek up and back down the valleys. We decided to start at the western end and spend 4 days trekking to the Torres (spanish for towers) del Paine. It meant you ONLY did 7 hours trekking a day! You can stay in Refugios (similar to hostels with food, showers, chocolate) as you go around the route but these are really expensive and are often fully booked. We've got our tent so we'll be roughing it at the campsites and cooking all our own food. So with our route and timescale planned. We can begin to shop for our meals and get some extra camping gear. Repacking our bags so we only carry what we need. They still seem really heavy! We book into Erratic Rock for our return so we can appreciate their fine breakfasts and hospitality!

Strange clouds, the photo was taken outside yummy Indigo restaurant
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That evening we meet up with Dave again, he's befriended this really cool and friendly English lass called Hester, she's travelling with a German guy called Frank who coincidentally we're sharing a room with! We all head out for a meal, Hester makes a good first impression, popping into a bank for cash. We all watch and cheer as a small child has to show her how to open the door...

Our restaurant, Indigo's, was right on the sea front. Quite posh with a pisco lounge upstairs. Some of us try the national cocktail, Pisco Sours, definitely an acquired taste. Tastes like battery acid. But what do you expect from a raw spirit mixed with lemon juice? We enjoy a fantastic fishy meal that Claire raves about for days afterwards.. Turns out Hester and Frank are doing the W as well, though they are going for the soft/slightly easier option of staying in refugios and getting all their food there. So they're travelling light. (we're secretly jealous but don't show it). Tomorrow is an early start..our biggest trek yet!