Day 46: Lyon

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We travel to Lyon by tram, which was fun as Billy stood on the turning plate for the second carriage. Lyon is a large old city with two rivers featuring between the sections. The transit centre for everything is located under a “Southland”, and the shops are just as diverse, with Will and Billy heading into Darty (Dick Smiths) and Kimmy into anything with potential. Out of there we had one shopping bag to shove into the backpack. Plenty of room for more.

We got off at Bellecour, having crossed La Rhone and wandered through the streets and avenues, past the terraced shop and homes with exquisite French architecture. Plenty of cafes and ‘traboules’ to buy a drink or a pastry. This sector, known as the Renaissance district is delightful, and leads to courtyards for a sit and think. Lots of other people map reading and Billy practices his skids badly on cobblestones. The shops can be deceiving…some very swish looking shops have excellent Paris made brilliant bargains, and some have prices that defy the quality of the crappy item in your hand and a tag, Made in China. And everywhere we go has Billabong, Ripcurl, Quicksilver..good Aussie surf gear of the world! Will, encouraged by us, hunted out some great gear that, without the coat hanger, squashed into the backpack. Watch out for a smartly dressed Will, with an AMEX smarting!!

Show Time for Billy to schedule a ‘battle” with his sidekick Will

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Now finding a restaurant in the sector was fun with seating out onto the narrow lanes, very French, and many families seated outdoors. Perusing the menu we have criteria for snack lunch: under $10E and with chips for Billy. Will and I shared a bowl of dips and bread…and more bread…and Bill’s leftovers. No wine or we’d never get through the rest of the day.

We walked across the La Saone to an area of Historic Lyon: A UNESCO world heritage site with Roman Theatres, Museums, Cathedrale Saint-Jean, Palais de Justice (housing the Justice League hey Billy?) and first destination on the highest point of Lyon, The Basilique, Notre-Dame De Fourviere which dominates the hills of Lyon. Following the crowd through the narrow corridors of residences, we started to walk up the stair pathway, and this continued up and up and up and round a corner and more of the same. Great views while we caught our breath and amazed at Billy’s energy! The park promenades zigzagged at angles as we walked further up to the Basilique, with Billy challenging Will to race him!! I backpacked the bargains, and am glad I am reasonably fit, didn’t have a wine and didn’t wear rubber thongs.

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Once there the views were amazing. The Basilique had two areas of worship. Firstly we went to the more austre chapel below with a catacomb, and then followed the side passage way up to the main cathedral. The ornate painted ceilings, gold trimmed carvings and statues decorated the huge area of worship. The elaborate gold statue of Mary centered in the cathedral was softly lit with candles and more gold. Billy thought the “fairy was beautiful”. He hunted out the organ pipes; organs were only recently added to churches as they were banned from the 13^th until the 18^th century. We are guessing the choir needed some backup as these cathedrals have high ceilings!!

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The Roman theatres, open air seating auditorium made out of rocks, was a surprise located on our way down the hill. Lyon has some many examples historically preserved for its visitors. The sun was shining and it was Show Time for Billy to schedule a ‘battle” with his sidekick Will. An unrehearsed battle between Asterix and Oberliex with kicking and charging, karate chops and tosses on the stage; Lyon was the capital of Gaul so this re-enactment was fitting. I guarded the treasure and sat with the Japanese tourists laughing at the Aussies.

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In the Renaissance section was a four storey Miniatures museum which housed tiny, created scenes made with materials including carved timber and plaster, painted and displayed. In simple terms, if you have ever made a shoe-box diorama for school with everything in miniature, tiny people, buildings, items, furniture and in 3D then you’ll get the idea. These models, for example, would research Maxim’s Restaurant and create an identical replica in miniature with lighting. They had butcher shops with sausages, living rooms with chimneys and Christmas trees, school rooms, stages set for rock concerts with guitars, shoe shops, boudoirs, palaces etc.. They have chestnuts with caricature carved and painted, tiny origami paper folded animals and displays created all around the world. Fascinating!!

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The restaurants, all lit up with awnings, outdoor tables and fairy lights beckoned us, so we stroll checking out the menu boards. Pricing varied greatly and the most popular spots often disappointed us in serve. Lyonese items on most menus and we were warmly greeted by a hostess who seated us into the Restaurant of Saint Joseph with its gold, red velvet, blackboard signs and mirrors; the tabletops of marble and leather seats and a candle. Wonderful ambiance and a great meal of entrée-poached eggs, bacon, croutons and sauce, and salmon salad with lemon and sorrel sauce, main: pike quelleles with lobster sauce, char-grilled salmon with rice; dessert was a dare which I accepted and won; it turned out to be meringue with custard and glazed caramel sauce which Will traded or swiped quickly, forgoing his caramel flan. Finished the rose and asked Billy to take us home on the Metro. The price was watching Shark Boy and Larva Girl but we did get see Lyon’s beauty at night lit up. Another favourite city.