Across the river in Pest - Opera House, Danube and a tragic Synagogue

The Great Synagogue, Pest
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One thing was has struck me about this city is the lack of anything Communist.

I expected an eastern bloc capital to have more statues of Lenin and Marx (they are there but seem to be the ones so solidly made the Magyars cant pull them down). Even the names of the streets have been changed back to their pre-war names. There is very little physically solid to account for forty years of communism. Theres a gentle backwardness to the place so it is obvious that it happened (and I mean that in a nice way). But nothing Soviet is left - its all been put in a museum or consigned to history. The truth is that Budapest was always the most enlightened and liberal of the Soviet bloc cities. Experimentalism and deviation from the Soviet line in the sixties meant a better standard of living compared to those in Bucharest or Leningrad. The Hungarian communists went peaceably in 1989 rather then being shot or arrested as in Roumania or East Germany.

Theres also a black stone monument nearby to the 1956 uprising in Budapest which the Russians crushed with tanks.

National Museum, Pest
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I was thinking this at the National Museum today but this is a city which makes you think. Its a fascinating city. I've been wandering around Pest today and the hours just flew by. One of the best communist legacies is a superb subway system which literally costs tuppence. I started my exploration at Deak Ter, the main square of Pest. Arpad warned me about the gypsy beggars so I avoided them and headed to St Stephens Basilica and as we were climbing the steps of this well worn monster a flustered old lady came running out shouting "No! No!" and put out a "Tourist: Stop " sign. I think she was trying to tell us something.

Parliament Building, Budapest
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The promenade along the Duna has truly stunning views across to Varhegy and the Buda side. But just north is the Neo-Gothic bulk of the Parliament Building.The whole building was breathtaking with an enormous dome and gothic lines and reminded me of Pugins Houses of Parliament in London. Theres also a black stone monument nearby to the 1956 uprising in Budapest which the Russians crushed with tanks. My father was a child at the time and it effected him deeply hearing it unfold on the news.

Then down to the river again and Vigado Ter where they have a tourist market set up outside the big hotels. You can buy lace, chessboards, leatherwork, and T-shirts and everything due to the forint being so devalued is a bargain. The big international names also seem to be moving in - Burger King and Marks and Spencers. I viewed this with a sense of sadness as I feel the Magyars need time to build up their own chainstores.Talking of the Magyars - ye gods, they are a good looking people. Wavy auburn hair, brown eyes, coffee skin, and that gentle accent. Yep, I can see why they are used as models.

Then I took a tram for two minutes to the Great Synagogue. Severe security checks including a guy asking you your name and country. And you are given a skullcap before you enter. Its the biggest synagogue in Eastern Europe and with rows and rows of pews it certainly looks it. The altar is a dome encased in blue tiles and looked faintly oriental. It was also during WWII next to Gestapo HQ so was a minor miracle it survived the war. There is a museum next door with numerous treasures retrieved from the plundering Nazis. The holocause room was stomachchurning. Some of the photos were sickening. And it fairly blames Admiral Horthy as the culprit with photos of him cosying up to Hitler.

Then as time was getting on I grabbed a gyro and headed for the National Museum. A huge edifice and took my time with the exhibts. Here I found my Soviet memorabilia rightly consigned to history. Exhibts on show include identity cards, Secret service files, Lenin statue and a enormous piece of Stalins nose, part of a colossal statue overlooking the river in Buda. Oh those communists!

How did Arpad put it when I asked him about those times "It was like being under a frogs arse down a coalmine. It was that bad."