Flight to Lukla & Trek to Phakding

Yeti Airlines - flight to Lukla
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October 21, 2007 Lukla (9,350') / Phakding (8,660')

Our trek starts today. We got up at 4:30am, and were off to the airport at 5:15. Our flight to Lukla left at 6:30 on Yeti Airlines. We were in an 18 passenger Twin Otter. The flight was about 40 minutes, with breathtaking views of the snow capped mountains below us. The Lukla runway is on a 20 degree slope going up which makes it easier for the planes to stop on the 1600 foot runway. It is at 9150 feet elevation. Click here to see a short video of a Lukla landing.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86rvcX8gR34.

Breakfast at teahouse in Lukla
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After landing, we ate a box breakfast brought from the hotel in a local tea house. We then met our Sardar (guide), Dawa Tenzing. Our Sherpa (assistant guide) was Nuri and our cook Phuri. Our duffle bags were to be transported by Dzo’s, which is a cross between a cow and a Yak. One person was in charge of leading them. There were also 3 cook boys who helped serve the meals and clean up and carry the food, pot and pans, propane stove, etc. So all together we had 7 people assisting us in our trek. They all worked very hard to make the trek nice for us. The cook always went ahead to prepare our next meal. I don't know how such wonderful meals we prepared opn a propane burner.  They had no stoves or electricity, but somehow Phuri make cakes and pies, and other great things. Tea houses make arrangements with groups and allow them to have the trekkers eat in the tea house even though they do not buy their meal sfrom them. We were off at 8:15am.

Starting our trek
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At 10:20 we stopped for lunch. Lunch was ready at 11am. At 11:45 we were back on the trail. ……… The trek began with a mostly downhill hike. We crossed a bridge over the Dudh Kosi (“Milk River”), which runs almost white with glacial sediment. Today we crossed one long and one shorter suspension bridge. They did not bother Chris at all, but I did not like them. I walked close behind Dawa and tried to look straight ahead. Many of the bridges in the Everest region were first built by Sir Edmund Hillary's Himalayan Trust and later replaced by metal suspension bridges. All the bridges have colorful prayer flags drapped all over them.

Trail from Lukla to Phakding - Mani Stones
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Tibetan prayer flags are strung throughout the Himalayas & the world, creating an atmosphere of peace, serenity, and hope wherever they are flown. Tibet Prayer Flags are traditionally hung outside temples, at holy sites, crossroads, over bridges, roof-tops, atop mountain summits or anywhere open, where the prayers may meet the wind. Prayer flags are said to invoke compassion, harmony, peace, wisdom, strength, and to offer protection against dangers and evil. Stringing Buddhist Prayer Flags is thought to be beneficial for all beings in the immediate area, and to benefit the karma of the individual who hangs the flags. Prayer flags will deteriorate from time spent out in the elements, so they are typically renewed each Tibetan new year by pilgrams visiting sacred sites. The old flags are not removed, the new flags are simply added to the existing prayers. These sites eventually build into wonderful displays of prayers and colors.

Lulka Airstrip
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The trail is very rocky with lots of ups and down. About 12:15 we walked by a man sitting at a table. He waved us over. I saw Army on his shirt, but then I realized he was a Maoist. He wanted 100 rupees per person as a contribution to the Maoist party to continue our trek. We thought that “charge” had stopped, but apparently not.

Today was a short, relatively easy afternoon of hiking that helped us acclimatize to the altitude. We reached our hotel at 1:40. At 3pm we had tea in the lodge dining room, served with popcorn. It tasted great. We met the trekkers in the other Wilderness Travel group and learned that 4 are doctors; pediatrician, opthamologist, anesthesiologist and primary care. Vicki, Mark, Maddie, Andy, Doris, Fred, Sharon and Jim. We had dinner at 6:30 and went to bed at 8pm. Our room is spacious, but there is no heat and it is cold. We have a bathroom in it with a shower, but it is so cold in the room, that we did not take one. We were given a flannel sleeping bag liner which we stepped into and then we zipped up into two down sleeping bags which were nested. We were fine in our sleeping bags. We stayed at Joe’s Garden, a Sherpa lodge in Phakding.

Trail from Lukla to Phakding
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Along the trails we also see Mani Stones. Manis (jewels) are carved prayer rocks traditionally inscribed with the Buddhist prayer mantra, Om mani padme hum, & the auspicious eyes of Buddha. Manis are piled into cairns and left atop mountain summits, at auspicious places, outside temples, at holy sites, crossroads where travellers pass, or anywhere that one wishes to offer the prayers. It is said that one who recites the sacred mantra, Om Mani Padme Hum will be saved from evil and danger.

Trail from Lukla to Phakding
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