Extreme Nature Happens

Max on the Continental Divide
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11/8--We left Ouray, beautiful Ouray, with snow-dusted san Juan peaks all around and continued south on 550. FYI was a champ and a gamer as we climbed Red Mountain Pass (11,008') and Molas Pass (10,910') then glided in the dark to Durango. I unhorsed and set out on foot to see what I could see. Found a promising gallery, had a delicious alcoholic beverage at the historic Strater Hotel and completed 2 hours of computer work at the coffeehouse Daily News. We left Durango at 9pm, heading west on 160 to Mesa Verde NP where we found all campsites closed. "No problem!" cries Max. "We can just sleep in this handy trailer parking lot" and so it was done. Up at 6am and on 23 miles to the museum, getting there WAY TOO EARLY. Nothing can happen until a ranger is on-site in the ruins so we took the mesa overlook road. Very nice views of some incredible ruins. Nobody but us this morning. All signs point to this being one hot cluster of tourists come summer. Back at the museum we hiked the Petroglyph Trail and visited the Spruce House Ruins. The museum is world-class and not to be missed. We left at 2pm and continued on 160 through Cortez and down to Four Corners. $3 admission, throw Max down on four states at once then out the door to Shiprock, New Mexico. Max is still complaining that he didn't get any frybread soaked in butter and sugar at Four Corners. Lost the light in Shiprock heading east on 64. Persevered until total eye and brain lock caused by heightened deer alert status. We found a pullout somewhere in the Carson NF and went to sleep under a night sky so filled with stars it was like the 4th of July come early. Good night Pops.

Ouray, Colorado
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11/9-- Up at first light to finish climbing the mountain then a twenty minute break to watch 3 bull elk watch me. Four more miles to the scene of an extreme nature happening. Two coyotes and a flock of magpies were tussling over the remains of a fresh-killed calf. One coyote vamoosed, the other stayed for 2 pics then abandoned the field to the magpies and crows. 40 more miles to Taos. Just outside of Taos I noticed many whimsical and bunker-like structures that turned out to be the Mothership community of folks dug in off the grid. I stopped at the Mothership model home but nobody was around to give me a tour. We crossed the Canyon of the Rio Grande and entered historical Taos, home to artists and mountain men. Ate a decent omelet at the Main Street Deli and Bakery then off to see what I could see. Found Kit Carson's home and gravesite, toured the beautiful and gracious  Luthan home then spent the perfect afternoon at the church San Francisco de Asis, beloved of Georgia O'Keefe and Ansel Adams among others. I noticed the place is chock full of tanned and handsome white-haired women who I suspect came to the communes in the 60's and never left. In my one day I believe Taos to be about light and shadow with an easy-going vibe that reminds me of Kathmandu. I have splurged for the evening and found a room at the Sun God Lodge where my accomodations were discounted when I helped get their WIFI up and going. This might very well be the first internet thing to beam from Sun God Lodge, Taos NM. Opened the room, took a looong hot shower and broke open the wine. Max got into the wasabi peas again so he's in the truck. I'll put this blog to bed then in I go. Good night wife, good night potpie.

Max got into the wasabi peas again!