Day 8: The splendour of Yangshou
From China Odyssey in Yangshuo, China on Aug 30 '06
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The breakfast at Sheraton this morning was quite elaborate. We were taking a boat cruise later in the day and neither Missy nor I were too crazy about taking our lunch on the boat (not sure what was going to be served) so we decided it would be best to have a plentiful breakfasts.
I've mentioned this earlier but the expansive spread that each hotel laid out every morning for breakfast continued to amuse and astound us both. We had a pretty predictable breakfast most days: Croissants, jam, french toast or pancakes, fruit, yogurt and coffee (for me). Every now and then, I'd get a bit adventurous and try out a morsel or two of something wrapped in seaweed or some kind of dumpling. This morning, I had an omelette (and one of the finest i've had!) and Missy had fried eggs. When we were done, our guide Shelley was already waiting for us.
It was like walking into a Chinese painting: tranquility, funny looking mountains, calm waters with water buffaloes and local fishermen on their rafts.
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The boat was actually quite a comfortable one - a lot like the ones you see at Queen's Quay or the Harbourfront that offer dinner cruises. Except this one was a four hour cruise (going downstream) on the Li River. Our table (each one seated four) had a couple from Germany. They were visiting their son (some hot shot marketing executive for HP - Pacific markets) in Singapore and had decided to take in some China along the way. They were very good company and took some lovely photos for us.
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The Li River cruise was unlike anything else that I have experienced. I've seen many prints of Chinese paintings that show tranquility, funny looking mountains, calm waters with water buffaloes or locals on their rafts. On this cruise, I saw it all for real and it was an amazing experience. After the "go-go-go" approach to the other sights where we were doing strenuous activities (hiking up the wall, cycling on the Xi'an City Wall, shopping in the markets, biking on the streets of Beijing), it felt almost disconcertingly unusual to do nothing but just drift along the water and take in the spectacular views.
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The lull and tranquility was soon interrupted though by the familiar "Hello, Hello, I give you Good Price!" entreaties of some local hawkers that had rowed in their small rafts and pulled up alongside our boats. I doubt there's really anywhere in China where you can escape to without having someone trying to sell you something.
Lunch on the boat was average - quite unappealing actually. I applauded my foresight in having had a big breakfast. We nibbled on a few things here and there but decided we'd wait until we got to the small county of Yangshou (where our boat cruise ended) and get a proper dinner.
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Once in Yangshou, the landscape was totally different. Beautiful mountain views, lake waters, narrow markets and lots of waterfront hotels. Our own hotel (the finest in Yangshou, i was told) was the Paradesa Resort - a huge complex with small villas housing various sections of the accommodation. In the lobby, we saw photos of President Nixon from his trip to Yamgshou (and this is where he stayed too). Well, if it was good enough for Nixon....
Our room was right by the beautiful outdoor pool. You guessed it, the first thing Missy did was get into her bathing suit and head to the pool. It was a hot day in Yangshou, the temperature had soared to an high of almost 34C and as Missy cooled off in the water, I scrambled to find some shade and catch some shut eye (i'd been up plate the night before - working on some stuff for mybindi.com).
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I was awakened (an hour or so later) with cool water splashed on me by Missy. We were both hungry now.. it was dinner time and we hadn't even had a proper lunch. We changed, went to the marketplace and saw a KFC!! We both looked at each other and we knew what we were having for dinner! Greasy food never felt this good before and we wolfed down the Colonel's Chicken without any guilt.
We decided to walk around in the market. we chatted with some locals, I did some more shopping (yikes!). Leather bags and beaded embridered bags were my newest obsession. If you happen to see me in Toronto (upon my return) with some glamorous bags - this is where I got them!
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It was almost 11 pm by the time we were done. It had been a great day and we were ready for Hong Kong tomorrow!
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