Hue: pancakes, bottle openers and rain

5 Star Imperial Hotel Hue. The best view in the city and the best cocktails!
see all photos »

Hue (pronounced "whey") was a slower paced few days with some great local cuisine, a lot of rain and a little downtime as Mike and I were a little "under the weather".

So after Halong Bay (last entry) we took the overnight train from Hanoi to Hue - $36 US for first class sleeper, a little more expensive than the bus but a lot more comfortable option for overnight trip (for some). We took a taxi to the train station and it was absolutely packed so were a little unsure who to approach (ie who looked like official staff!) and ask which platform/cabin etc. With no time to think a man took Mike's bag, looked at our tickets and took off towards the train. He tried to take mine but I was carrying on by back properly. He took us direct to our cabin and put bags under the sleeper and then puts his hand out. He followed Mike off the train (went to get overnight supplies) and did the same. Turns out he expected $10US per person! He did not work for the train station and just did that for tips - and without even giving the option if you wanted it! Mike offered him 10,000 dong only which he reluctantly took (less than $1 US) - he did not even carry both our bags.

tried frog the first time... it just tastes like chicken but more tender

DMZ Cafe - westerns meeting place. Andrea, John and Mike.
see all photos »

So the sleeper and train was very basic and we shared with another couple (different to Thailand train where we had private cabin). Maree and Lou were from New Zealand and travelling around Vietnam for a few weeks. We chatted with them for hours - Lou was originally from the US, is a naturopath and just very knowledgable in general so it was quite an interesting conversation. Mike slept well (possibly aided by couple of over the counter sleeping tablets) while I was on the top bunk practically wedged into the air con vent and as a result had a lot of sinus issue and slept poorly.

Slowboat (Very Slow) also a wet boat. Great food onboard!
see all photos »

Fri 12/10/07

Pulled into Hue right on time at 8.45am (approx 14 hour trip) where I had a sign with my name for our pickup (rang ahead to book accommodation this time at a place that provided pick up). We saw lots of minivans and cars, (and taxi drivers constantly try to poach you) but back to the end of the parking lot was our transport - two motorbikes. The roads in Hue are much much quieter than Hanoi so it was a relaxing 2km ride to our guesthouse. We stayed at Halo Guesthouse in the tourist area and had a large room with aircon for $10US (only one English speaking channel on the tv though - the Russian channel!?).

Thien Mu Pagoda - Hue.
see all photos »

Took the day easy and had a bit of a wander and bit of a rest - Mike officially had hurt his back and was struggling with "mobility" and my sinus issues from the train had not gone away by the end of the day and am sick with a cold. We still met John and Andrea (from Halong Bay cruise) at 4pm as we had planned (they flew to Hue) and went and decided to splurge and had a drink at the roof top bar at 5 star Imperial Hotel. Was a great view and the alcoholic fruit shakes were great. The city looked quite pretty by night with the river running through the middle and mountains in the distance. Three pseudoephedrines later and I was feeling a lot better so we had dinner with John and Andrea at a the DMZ cafe - very western and I would not go back again for the food. As usual are bombarded with kids wandering around trying to sell postcards, canvas prints etc while we are at sitting at cafe.

Jacqui enters the Citadel.
see all photos »

Sat 13/10/07

We started the day early as we (+John and Andrea) had organised a 7.30am boat trip with a local family to go and visit the tombs of previous kings (main attraction in Hue) and some pagodas. It rained all night and was still in the morning so did not look promising. We donned the ponchos (unfortunately the camera battery died so we don't have any glamorous photos to show from the day). We got soaked at Thien Mu Pagoda stop - looked clear but then poured as we were wandering around. The rain would not normally bother us except for feeling like crap with a cold and back pain between us!

Apparently the highest flag in Vietnam. Each time it is destroyed they build it taller. Part of the Citadel.
see all photos »

Some of the tombs are a 3km from the river drop off (motorbike the only transport to them) so we first went to the one that was walking distance from river - Minh Mang. Yes it was pouring and there were many near slip overs. The grounds of the tomb are quite grand though and take a good while to walk through. Back on the boat and still pouring rain we decided to just head back without any more stops - about a 1.5 hr trip on the "slow boat". One of the higlights of the day though was spending time on the family boat - the dad chatted to us about his kids (all 6 of them ranging from 3 to 21 years of age!). The mother had been to the market and prepared us lunch on the boat - they laid a mat down and we sat down for fresh spring rolls, fish (maybe tuna?), noodles,  beef & mushroom and steamed rice. The youngest daughter brought the food out and the 3 yr old boy was hanging around too. I gave him a little koala (tacky yes but brought a few at the airport in Melbourne to give out to kids) which brought the biggest smile to his face.

Someone is happy! In the gates of Citadel.
see all photos »

Returning about 1pm Mike and I went to get some rest via a stop at the pharmacy - loaded up on drugs for our respective ailments for about $10. Seemed a waste of the afternoon but needed rest and slept until about 7pm. Still pouring rain we ventured out for a bit - just opposite the guesthouse to an outdoor vegetarian restaurant. It was here we met Thuan who as usual tried to get us to go on a motorbike tour with him. He showed us his little book (they all carry around a book with written testomonials from previous tourists) and photos and let us be. As a side note, as you walk around in Hue (just like Hanoi or anywhere in Vietnam) you are constantly approached or called out to "where you go?", "mo-to-biiiike", "cyclo one hour!". We ended up chatting to him for a couple of hours though, a lot about the differences between Vietnamese life and Western. He also offered to take Mike to an English speaking pharmacist the next day to get better drugs!

The Citadel comprises of numerous buildings from many years ago.
see all photos »

Sun 14/10/07

After Mike's quick city tour with Thuan he was feeling better loaded up on anti-inflammatory tablets and I was heaps better too - and the weather was clear and hot again! (General pattern was clear/hot day followed by pouring rain - and there is more to come....) Met John and Andrea and we headed to explore the Imperial Citadel and Antiquities Museum in the "old city" which covers a vast area and comprises multiple buildings that historically used by the royals only. We returned in the afternoon to see a cultural show (music and theatrics) which was really quite entertaining.

Bam! Bottle opened Hue style!
see all photos »

In between the Citadel visits we had a fantastic lunch and experience at Lac Thien (be sure to find the correct one - in the usual Vietnamese style there are two "copy cats" restuarants with very similar names trying to cash in on Lac Thien's reputable name). The host/ownder is deaf and mute but was a great character. We ordered Hue specialties - shrimp pancakes and the "roll your own" rice paper rolls (I can't remember the Vietnamese name for them but there is English descriptions on menu) - our fave meal to date since being in Vietnam! The restaurant also has a unique touch that everyone loves - they use a bottle opener that basically comprises a piece of wood and a bolt and nut that you place over the cap and lever off. They give each customer one as a souvenier also and write the date of your visit on it.

Cooking Pancakes - Hue speciality.
see all photos »

That night we tried Bar Why Not? for a drink with John and Andrea which is a nice place to sit (recommend over DMZ cafe) and then Mike and I had a date - with our new Vietnamese friend Thuan and his brother Hieu who offered to take us to a local restaurant. They took us on their motorbikes to an open air restaurant/canteen type set up where we were the only falang there so felt a little awkward at times. It is different to your usual dining experience - the staff bring over a bucket of ice and a crate of beer and you just drink as many as you like. Thuan ordered for us - we tried frog the first time... it just tastes like chicken but more tender, and came in a tasty sauce that you dip fresh bread/baguettes in. At Mike's request we had duck and then we had a hot pot - they bring the hot plate out to your table with a plate of seafood, meat and green veg that you cook in the pot yourself and pour over vermicelli noodles i your bowl. Also inbetween the duck and the hotpot it started raining - so the guys just picked up the table, crate of beers and took it over to the covered area and carried on. We paid for the bill (implicitly discussed the previous night) - but everything was half the price and twice the quantity of a usual restaurant and the beers dirt cheap so not a problem at all.

Where there is water, there is people fishing.
see all photos »

Thuan and Hieu dropped us back at Bar Why Not where we compared dining experiences with John and Andrea and told them we would pass on their organised car trip to Hoi An the next and that we would go on the motorbikes with the guys IF weather permitted....