Campeche, the walled city

The multi coloured streets of Campeche in early morning light.
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Campeche is now a World Heritage site, and justifiably so. It´s a low-rise town, where the houses are painted in a wide spectrum of beautiful pastel colours. With its narrow cobbled streets, and relaxed atmospehere it is a joy to relax in and walk around.

Because most travellers seem to bypass Campeche, it is less commercial and seems a lot less touristy that many other Yucatan towns.

"13 rabbits"

Campeche started life as a Mayan trading village called Ah Kim Pech, (Lord Sun Sheep-Tick). After several unsuccessful attempts by the Spanish Conquistadores to conqueror the city, they finally gained control in 1540 under the leadership of Francisco de Montejo the Younger. The town was then renamed "Villa de San Francisco de Campeche".

Pilgrims singing to the Virgin of Guadalupe in the Cathedral.
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Under Spanish control, the town flourished as a major port, and as a result suffered from attacks by pirates. After a particularly violent such attack, the city was fortified and Campeche's famous bastions were constructed from 1686 onwards.

When we arrived in the town it was preparing to welcome pilgrims from across the Yucatán for the annual pilgrimage to the Church of the Virgin of Guadalupe (Dec 12). En route here by bus from Palenque, you couldn't fail to notice the groups fo pilgrim cyclists, all heading for Campeche, and there was a steady stream of pilgrims arriving during the entire time we spent in Campeche.

Rudolph the red-nosed piñata.
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Each group would in turn go to the main Cathedral, where they would sing and pray in front of the icon of the Virgin of Guadalupe.

At a row of small market stalls behind the Cathedral, I spotted a Piñata stall, with Christmas piñatas. They included Santa, Rudolph, and snowmen. The stall holder invited me to take photos, and even helped Dave to model some (see pic)!!!

Piñatas are made from paper maché, and decorated in wonderful bright colours and designs. The parents make a hole in the top and fill them with sweets, after which they are suspended and the blindfolded children have to try and smash them apart with a stick to get at the sweeties. They are not only used for birthday parties, but also during many other Mexican festivals.

Bingo in front of the Cathedral.
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With the onset of a light shower of rain, we bolted for the nearest ice-cream shop. With the rain stopped and two scoops each, we stepped outside and the ice cream instantly melted in the heat and ran down our hands. Ice-cream headaches!

We strolled along the promenade and as the sun was beginning to set we watched as a large rainbow formed far out to sea, casting an almost magical light on the land.

At weekends the main square comes alove as the locals come out to stroll around and listen to music. While we were there a jazz band was playing while across the square in front of the Cathedral an outdoor game of "bingo" (La Lotería) was being conducted. The caller has a manually operated tombola, and wears a traditional huipil (embroidered blouse). She calls out the numbers, for example, "13 rabbits", in the same way as in the UK where we say "88 two fat ladies".

The flushing mechanism in the quaint Colonial Hotel.
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Our hotel in Campeche was the Colonial hotel, and it almost seems like it is stuck in a time warp. The main reception has a very old manual typewriter on the desk and the plumbing system seems really antiquated. The fans in the ceilings could propel a small aircraft, such is the speed with which they rotate. If they ever fell from the ceiling...

The flushing mechanism in the toilet consists of a large stopcock on the wall, which you open in order to flush, and the shower is smaller than bijou. All of this did not detract from its charm, and the friendly welcome that we received.