Full Moons and Brits Abound on this Island

Lovely sunset
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Having departed our island refuge as a result of a mad motorbike man, we found ourselves on the shore of Koh Phangan Island, home of the famous Full Moon rave that draws thousands of backpackers every month of the year. It is also home to many adorable stray dogs, delicious restaurants, and "Special Happy Shakes." Unfortunately, all the good things about this island have to be shared with loads of tourists (most of them drunken slobs) and jaded locals (who have every right to be disappointed in their clientele). We decided to take the good with the bad and hunkered down in a rustic cabin full of geckoes and holes (but with loads of character) at the Leela Beach Bungalows, just twenty minutes from party-central Hat Rin Beach. We were disappointed at the fact that we were paying the same amount of money (even though it was only 12USD) for such a shoddy cabin as we had for our amazing one on Freedom Beach, but it was still on the beach and was rather cosy and romantic, what with the mosquito net glimmering in the moonlight.

Best Spirit House in Thailand
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We distracted ourselves from the creepy worms and massive mosquitos by attempting to draw up a plan to GET DRUGS for this full moon rager that would be held in a few days time. Now, I must clarify that we were not attempting to do Trainspotting or Requiem imitations...we just wanted some good old-fashioned weed and maybe a magic mushroom or two. We generally avoid alcohol and we couldn't imagine going to our first and only rave with nothing but the cheap bottle of rum we had and a can of coca cola.

Full Moon fire juggling
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Uncharacteristically, and out of desperation, the quest for mind alteration brought people together and was a great opportunity for positive international relations between two married Yanks (us) and a fabulous group of Brits from Cambridge Uni. It all came about because we resolved to talk to our fellow backpackers, with whom we usually have nothing in common because we are married and don't like to drink.

We made the acquaintance of our new witty and intelligent friends and the evening was spent in mutual plotting and eating delicious fish and chips. Over the next few days, we had what we have always wanted in our traveling and failed to find: amazing conversations and connections. We had actually found people that wanted to talk about REAL and important things! I even ended up reading and discussing one of the guy's dissertations on Hugo Chavez.

When not discussing twentieth century political philosophy, my husband and I explored a bit of our surroundings, reveling in delicious food and thanking the gods we had earplugs when we went to sleep. We investigated a tip from our friends and discovered a delightful dive high up on a cliff overlooking Hat Rin called "Mellow Mountain," aptly named for it sold "Special Happy Shakes," which taste bad and feel great. We downed two of the magic mushroom shakes and then hightailed it back to the safety of our bungalow, hoping to avoid the Thai police, who are cracking down on many wonderful things such as these.

I know many people who are against all drugs and I think they are generally misinformed and fearful. I am not a proponent of hard drugs, but I do believe that marijuana and mushrooms are two of a few that should be legalized. IF alcohol, which is far more destructive both to the user and community, is legal, then I believe these other substances should be as well. If you do your research, you will see what I mean, as I really don't feel like getting on my soapbox more than I already have...this is a travel story!

Needless to say, my husband and I passed a lovely evening on a quiet beach, gazing at the amazing natural wonders surrounding us and reveling in the lack of development and the clean air. It was mind blowing both physically, emotionally, spiritually, and mentally and it was truly a gift that I got to have this experience in Thailand. I am glad someone at Mellow Mountain payed their baksheesh and that I can leave the country having grown in so many positive ways.

A few days later we did indeed go to the Full Moon party, where we were surrounded by thousands of young (and a few older) people, where we danced the night away with glow sticks in hand. We were able to procure some herbal refreshment at another baksheesh paying coffeeshop, which was nice because the stumbling drunks around me were unenviable. I wish that people would realize how unattractive they are when drunk and how you can't often say "it was worth it." I mean, people were literally drinking out of BUCKETS with straws...and apparently there was a lot of out in the open sex once the sun came up (but we twenty-four year-old old timers were thankfully safe in our bed by 5am). The music was pretty bad, which caused our mutual exodus back to our place. Techno is terrible if you listen to it for more than a few hours, let alone DAYS! The music hadn't stopped and nor had the partying when we had made our way to breakfast around noon.

However, I did have fun for a bit, dancing and sporting my glow in the dark bracelets. We hung out with our friends a bit and watched fire jugglers, most of whom were backpackers that had practiced all week for the big night. Almost everyone had glow in the dark paint on their bodies and the moon shone full and bright. After a few hours, though, I tired of the drunken mass of humanity, the repetitive music, and the men peeing in the ocean that I had planned on swimming in. It was time for me to go home and acknowledge, as my husband said, that "We are not Party People." Later the next day, it was kind of sad seeing all these miserable people who had partied to hard or the ones who thought they hadn't partied enough and were empty enough to go out for more. the blaring music didn't fit with the quiet, rainy night and bordered on pathetic.

It was great to come here and be social and make friends and dance and party, but we were more than ready to go two days later. We're tired of the tourist scene and were happy to leave the famous party behind...there are enough people to fill our dancing shoes for years to come.