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The Biernats
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Someone once told me to skip Prague and come to Poznan, a real medieval Eastern European city. I didn't take that person's advice and later got my revenge by convincing her that Seattle Washington was the "New" New York. Despite this trickery, or because of it, we eventually married and I finally got to see Magda's hometown of Poznan.

This is I think my fourth or fifth time here. Honestly I've lost count, but I've lost count of so many important things (did I bring three or four pairs of socks on this trip?). Poznan seems to be at the vanguard of the revitilization of Eastern Europe. Money is flooding in from Germany and other EU countries. True, Poles are leaving in droves for higher paying jobs, but here's the thing: They are returning. With full wallets. The local economy has responded with a slew of new ammenities. Cinemas are springing up everywhere, the most impressive mall I've ever seen was recently completed and voted the best of it's size in the world. I look forward to the time when the sleek, low-profile freeway is finished between Warsaw and Berlin as it will connect the country to itself and the rest of Europe like never before.

Polish Mexican Restaurant
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I know it sounds strange to celebrate a new mall or a freeway, especially coming from a place where there are too many of both. But Poland is currently at a stage where these things are truly welcome and truly appreciated. There is an optimism in the air that those who visited Poland years ago would not recognize and I for one am glad, since optimism might have been the only thing missing from this wonderful country.

The buildings in the Stary Rynek, the Old Town Square, tell the tale. The facades have been painted bright, welcoming colors, appropriate to the renaissence style architecture. There are plans in the works to rebuild the once great castle on the hill and parts of the town wall torn down by ancient Swedes who were tired of them getting in the way during sackings. All four fountains that originally sat in the corners of the square have recently been replaced, frosting on the cake that is the town hall, rebuilt after The War using original materials and the actual plans drawn by a renaissence Italian architect. The stains of war have finally been washed away from the epicenter of Europe's 20th century troubles. Poznan has returned to its former glory as one of the largest conference centers in Europe.

Beers in the Old Town Center
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Don't get me wrong, Poznan and Poland in general are a long way from being Times Square. Which is exactly why I like it so much. It feels like Europe here. There is none of the overbearing signs of infrastructure and commerce that has turned much of Western Europe (and Times Square, literally) into a Disneyland version of itself. Wood burning fires still taint the air with a rich sweet smoke that is so evocative of another era. Some farmers still ride horse-drawn carriages between narrowly laid out fields instead of massive corporate owned combines. Ancient palaces hold court surrounded by their grounds, empty of the crowds of tourists you'd think they would warrant. You can actually move from room to room by yourself in some of these palaces and open unused doors to see dormant ballrooms panelled by wall sized mirrors that once reflected Europe's dancing gentry before the fall. Secret doors in fireplaces where noblemen hid during any number of conflicts that have raked this region. In the towns, narrow cobblestone streets with orange stucco walls hug clausterphobicly, leading you to hidden gems of baroque churches or basement taverns. The old town synagogue, evidence of a flourishing Jewish populace who fell victim to an evil history, standing proud despite its peeling paint and chipped facade.

I love the history here and I feel lucky to not just be an observer but a participant in the current Polish diaspora that was begun by Glasnost and the Velvet Revolution. Western Europe is nervous about the flood of Poles that have washed across the border since joining the EU but they needn't be. Polish people love Poland and they will always return here. There is much to love, the land is rich with history and potential as are the people.

As I mentioned, we flew in with RyanAir, having purchased our tickets some months ago for something like 9pounds. As the plane (which is by the way just like a life-sized toy it feels so plastic and cheap) parked at the gate at Stamstead it unloaded a hundred or so Poles who no doubt work or have family who work in England. A hundred or so other Poles filled their empty seats as we boarded the returning flight. When we landed, the bilingual stewardess first spoke in English, "Welcome to Poland" then switched to repeat herself in Polish and said, "Witamy do domu." Welcome home.