Another lost civilization another pyramid to climb

The big heads of Bayon
see all photos »

I found a decent place to land for my time here.  10 foot tall ceilings.  what a difference a little height makes.  First off you need to picture what happens when the bus stops in town.  The doorway is literally mobbed by drivers yelling at everyone.  I don't know how they spot you.  But this time what I did was spotted a guy outside the window while I was still seated and just pointed to him.  He took me in a tuk-tuk to the Ancient Angkor - everything here is the something Angkor.  I then arranged to hire him for my driver for two days around the temples.

I could not resist this face so I now have an assortment of little brass gods
see all photos »

He wasn't a guide he was just a driver.  I just winged as far as learning anything about these sites.  And yes by anyone's measurement this place is awesome.  You cannot fathom the overall size of the sites.  Angkor Wat is the central gem of a radiating array of temples/ruins.  They are incredibly picturesque.  The damage nature has done only increases their allure and mystery.  Outside of every major site are hawkers selling trinkets and drinks.  The second you step from the entryway to the road you are assailed by shouts of "Sir, sir you want cold drink/T-shirt/scarf/something to eat/etc... by a half dozen competing voices.  Even when you are in the sites small children will ply you with plaintive eyes and rapid fire come-ons for postcards or some ungodly trinket.  They do take no for an answer.  The first day I spent over 6 hours and today over 8 in a sweltering heat.  My picture taking and in fact my movements became timed to where the next bit of shade could be found.  Those cute salesgirls could charge the moon for a cold drink.

A temple wide view
see all photos »

At the last site of the first day I ran into a guy who chatted me up earlier in the day.  He lives as a student with the monks.  There was a festival going on at this last place and he introduced me to a monk who then sat with me and we talked for at least a half hour about his life as a monk and about his family.  It was all so charming and interesting.  His English was quite good and he told me his goal was to learn Spanish also.

Last night I got picked up by a guy at the internet cafe who invited me to see Khmer boxing.  We went to this sort of side-show atmosphere lot and I paid for us to go in.  You are given a plastic chair for your ticket and a typical ring is in the center.  I found myself really interested in the boxing.  There were 6 matches starting with youngsters and ending with the Cambodian champ.  Man was this guy fast.  He knocked the Thai competitor out in the first round with a kick to the head.  It was impressive.  This guy who took me started an NGO for orphans.  So his job was to finagle some cash from me for the poor children.  Well, yes I gave him $20.00 and later thought ''did I just fall for a complete line of shit?''  I still ended up being a fun night as he took me for another unedible Cambodian dinner - Don't order the frog, and a tour of the town.

Ok I am going to attempt to make some generalizations about the Khmer vs. the Vietnamese.  So caveat emptor on any prejudices that come out.

The classic Khmer person is physically stockier and in fact the guys are so well built leaning much more on the endomorph vs.  the skinnier Viets.  In fact they definitely are completely different peoples.  Like comparing Italians and Swiss.  The Vietnamese are so strongly linked with China where the Khmer are much more East Indian in culture.  You can see people everyday here in Cambodia who could have modeled for the faces on the temples.  They are definitely quick to smile here.  Educationally I think the Vietnamese have the advantage.  There school system is stronger and the Khmers are all so young.  They say 40% are under 16.  I think Vietnam gives you more bang for your buck in food, accomodations and general places to go.  It seems to me prices in Cambodia are going up as we speak and you have to negotiate everything including just making a fucking phone call  - another bitch I have.  There are some things you just don't want to have to make the effort to negotiate.