Jaipur

Jeevan. Rob, you've been replaced.
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Jaipur- It’s all right so far.  I haven’t seen much to brag about yet.  I am going on an Elephant ride tomorrow, looking forward to that.  I’m staying at a nice hotel that’s centrally located, and yet it seems far enough from the commotion to get a good night of sleep.  I left after lunch, and was toured around by a local guide who was really trying to hustle me.  For every monument I saw, there were two workshops we entered to “See local craftsmen.”

After I returned to my hotel.  The owner of the hotel, and the head of the restaurant, both sat at my table while eating dinner, and were great fun.  I showed them pictures on my computer of the children from STAR, and of my friends back at home.  I then went to use the internet in the hotel lobby, and met the owners’ son.  He is an ultra polite, well-educated young man, with manners to match.  His father joined us, and we had an awesome discussion that lasted for over two hours.  The conversation was the very opposite of the above-mentioned verbal lynching.  We spoke of technology (they were both impressed by the apple lap-top), movies, culture, politics, and life in our respective countries.  I know I’ve just told you that this conversation was the opposite of the one I was earlier ranting about, but I’m just totally blown away by how much a difference there was.  We were able to speak on such an amicable level, and rather than pointing out differences, and perceived weaknesses in one another’s countries, we simply had a great time passing the moments in good company.  I’m off to bed now, as I have to get up early for the eclipse at 6:45 a.m.  After an eclipse, all Hindus take a ceremonial bath.  I’m looking forward to taking a ceremonial bath myself.

Sugan Niwas owner and his son.
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Missed the eclipse.  Set my alarm, woke up, got out of bed, and the sun was behind a giant cloud.  “Oh you should have been out here five minutes ago.” People kept telling me.  Back to sleep.  Overslept, raced downstairs, was forced to eat breakfast by Jeevan, the restaurant manager, got going fifteen minutes late, and missed the elephants.  Virander said it was no problem, as we could head to the Amber Fort and ride the elephants in the morning.  The rest of the day was spent shopping.  Jaipur is world famous for its jewelry cutting caste, which cuts the majority of the worlds precious stones.

My carriage awaits.
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On to lunch, a great restaurant with many locals dining there, as well as the ever present tourists.  I had the nerve to try some mint chutney, and while tasting great, I think it lead to my first case of “Delhi belly” the next day.  Why was it the mint chutney?  Because it’s the only thing I’ve eaten recently that wasn’t piping hot.  Oh well.  We then headed to a ceramics shop, where I bought several awesome pieces, which I don’t think you can get in the States.  After haggling, I only spent around 35 bucks for several really cool pieces.  The owner of the store is actually a minor celebrity in Jaipur.  Bill Clinton visited several years ago, and he commissioned the guy to make him a very expensive piece.  A year after the commission, the piece was finished, and Bill Clinton sent him letters of thanks that were published in the Jaipur newspapers.  The owner showed me his log of customers and their pictures.  I saw a picture of a lady from San Clemente along with a letter of thanks.  He explained that the lady was a good customer and friend of his, and that they correspond often.  I told him that I know San Clemente very well, and that I only live about an hour away from there.  He asked me a big favor:  Would I be able to take a piece to her?  “Of course I would.” I replied, and he packed a ceramic mug for the lady along with my stuff.

Yo. In Amber Fort.
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Back to Sugan Niwas.  That’s the name of my hotel here in Jaipur. The man who manages the restaurant is again named Jeevan.  He’s a cool cat who’s not afraid to speak with his customers.  There are people in this world who are nice to you, because they feel they have to be.  Jeevan and the rest of the hotel staff and owners are nice because they WANT be.  I honestly felt so at home there, that it gave me a little stab in the heart to be leaving.  I can honestly say that I’ll be back one day.  I again stayed up speaking with the owner and his son for a great long time about everything from video games, (the son is quite the gamer) to music, (dads a music buff, he especially likes Sinatra) and again to politics.  The father feels much the same as I do about America.  He was telling me stories, about how poorly Nat King Cole was treated back in the day.  He then said that America has come a long way since that time, and he thinks as I do: Democracy made it possible.  He and I agree, that the caste system in India will one day be far less important because of the fledgling democratic government they have.  I promised to find a very obscure record for the owner.  A Frank Sinatra, Count Bassie duo album.  I swear I’ll find it.  When I woke in the morning and took breakfast, the owners’ son came out to meet me.  Keep in mind that it was 6:45, and that he usually goes to bed at 2 or 3 in the morning.  While eating breakfast, he gave me three CD’s that his father had him burn for me the night before.  His father and I had been going on, and on, about Frank Sinatra, Nat King Cole, Bobby Darrin, etc. and he felt that I should take a little piece of Sugan Niwas with me.

City Palace
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“Delhi Belly,” not very much fun.  Although I’ve been a little adventurous on this trip in regards to the food I eat, I finally got a little sick.  I wasn’t exactly lying in bed all day sick, but it was unpleasant nonetheless.  In the morning, I went to Amber Fort.  I rode an elephant up the 2-kilometer hillside.  I really didn’t like the way the driver treated the elephant, or the way he constantly reminded me that I needed to tip him.  Ride over I went into the fort.  I met a local guide, and paid him 250 rupees ($5) for a tour.  He was a cool guy, but he, like many others in India was actually more of a salesman than a tour guide.  The dude really helped me out of a bad situation though, and for this, I’m grateful.  “Delhi Belly” had set in.  For those unaware, “Delhi Belly” is the same as “Montezuma’s Revenge.”  It’s simply germs in food that you’re not used to, causing a disruption in there.  I used the bathroom before I went into the fort.  It was an unpleasant scene…it was a squatter.  Not fun at all.  We then took off into the fort.  It was a cool fort with many opulent items, but it wasn’t as cool as the Merehngar fort.  Before long I started to feel a rumbling in my stomach much the same as before.  I told my guide that I needed to use the bathroom.  He looked at me skeptically and said that he knew where one was, but that it was a very old fashioned one.  Old fashioned isn’t quite the word.  We went through several hallways and finally to a dark and dank dungeon-like room located inside the fort.  Turns out, I used a 350 year old toilet.  How many people can say that?  If you’re a history buff, or you’ve seen the T.V. show “Rome” you’ll know what one of these toilettes looks like.  They’re made of blocks located on the floor, with a crevice shaped a lot like a lower case “I” carved into them.  In the end, he ran to get me some toilette paper, and some water, as I sat there laughing at the whole situation.  I took some medicine when I got back to the car, and have felt fine since.  If that’s the worst of the “Delhi Belly” then I’m quite grateful.  I’ve met people on this trip who’ve been laid up for a week or so from food poisoning.