The White Town
From Journey to Africa's Gate in Chauen, Morocco on Jan 13 '05
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We finally arrived in Chauen, a little white town washed with the sweet
sun of the Mediterranean. Every town and city in Morocco is divided
'We decided to stop to have a mint tea in a typical coffee place...when something incredible happened..."
in two parts: the ville nouvelle or new city, and the ancient medina
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where you find the real Morocco, a maze of little and noisy streets,
houses, shops or souqs, street sellers and mosques, all surrounded by
fortress walls with entrance arches generally located in the four corners
of the medina.
We found a very cheap hotel in the ville nouvelle, left our backpacks
in the room and wondered down to the medina. When we entered the medina
a completely new world appeared before our eyes. People stared at us
with such intensity we felt like we were people running away from a
mental institution. I gotta tell you that we never felt that watched
before, we were starting to wonder when they last saw foreign people.
Chauen´s medina is small and quiet, houses and stairs are dyed
with soft blues and cream colours giving a sensation of coolness and
cleanliness. You just have to let go of everything else and get lost
in the hundred of tiny narrow streets, trying no to bump on beggars
sitting on the floor and street dealers offering you hash or marijuana.
You have to answer politely but firmly and they won't bother you any
more. If you pass by any house-shop you will get the inevitable offer
of visiting: 'Please feel free to look around and touch, there is no
need to buy, try it!'
The real thing is that you feel terrible entering their houses and not
buying anything at all, all quality products and everything so beautifully
on display. They even offer you tea or coffee. But you always end up
feeling guilty because you wasted his time. During the next days we
began to understand that it was all part of the game, so we relaxed
and enjoyed.
We decided to stop to have a mint tea in a typical coffee place, where
woman are not allow to enter, when something incredible happened. For
the first time, we heard the chants to call the people to prayer, coming
from the speakers from one of the many mosques. It felt like time stopped
and we were special guests in an Indiana Jones movie. The first stage
in this amazing trip was as good as it gets. We went to sleep and woke
up early the next morning to go to our next stop.
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