Teman Negara and Cameron Highlands
From Lizzi and Nick circumcise the globe in Cameron Highlands, Malaysia on Apr 30 '06
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To reach the Teman Negara from KL takes 1 day by coach and longboat. The Teman Negara is actually the oldest rainforest in the world, meaning that some of the flora is quite unique. It boasts 2 canopy walkways one of which is the longest in the world. We were staying in the south entrance of the park, which was the main entry point for tourists, this actually spoilt it a little bit for us as it felt a little too commercial and not really as if we were in the middle of the rainforest, also this meant that we were able to see less wildlife. Fine if you want a choice of restaurants and a little more comfort, but not if you want to spot any animals. We spent just one full day in the Teman Negara, during this time we walked the longest canopy walkway in the world, 45 metres high and not really for the faint hearted or those with any fear of heights, it initially felt a little like a mild high ropes course but without the harness. The walkway is made by suspended ladders with a plank laid over the rungs and netting to hold it all together and prevent you from crashing to the ground! We then went off on our own self guided hike through the forest, only for Nick to be attacked by leeches. When we got back to our room, Lizzi had just 1 neat bite, but Nick's would not stop bleeding and he found leeches hiding in his shoes, the little buggers. We plastered him up, but on leaving the room he only got hit again, this time by falling starfruit! The afternoon was a little more relaxed, we visited a local 'orang asli' tribe. Orang Asli actually means original people, and it is thought that these were the first people to arrive and start living in the jungles of Malaysia. Our guide had previously lived with this tribe and explained to us about their culture, they welcomed us to look around their village and the chief demonstrated how they made fire, how to make arrows and showed us how to blow arrows through the blowpipe, luckily we practised with non-poisoned darts as our aim needed a bit of work! The Orang Asli are actually nomadic and whilst we were there most of the men were off hunting so the village was quite quiet. The good thing was that we didn't feel as if it was a 'tourist attraction' or that the people were being exploited or encouraged away from their way of life. When we visited it was just us and one other couple, and the reality is that nowadays they do need a little money, rather than solely relying on the rainforest. Most of the restaurants where we were staying, were
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actually floating restaurants on the river, which added a little novelty. That evening we went on a guided night walk, we spotted samba deer, a paradise tree snake, scorpions, crickets, spiders and termites. In all we enjoyed the Teman Negara but if we were to return its likely that we would book a guide to take us into the undeveloped north or west entrance. At least the Malaysian government is doinga little to preserve this rainforest and protect it from overtourism by confining it to certain areas. Unlike the damage that has been done to other areas of Malaysia through the Palm Oil plantations. After the Teman Negara it was another long coach trip to the region of Malaysia known as the Cameron Highlands. It wasn't as English influenced as we had expected, but we could buy a cream tea!!!! This area is at a higher altitude and enjoys a cooler climate with regular possibly daily rainfall every afternoon. Sunny mornings and rainy afternoons allow for excellent growing conditions for a wide variety of fruit, vegetables and flowers. It is particularly famous for its strawberries and tea plantations. Whilst there we spent a morning hiking up to the 'Boh tea plantation', enroute the track we had chosen could be a little muddy and slippery, Lizzi slipped at one point and had to be saved from slidding all the way down a cliff by the quick reactions and soft talking of Nick. We picked up a few other fellow travellers on the way and made it a few hours later to the plantations for a very welcome cup of tea. We were shown around the factory for turning the leaves into the tea that we drink and were given a very good explanation of the whole process. Looking out from the plantations offered some lovely views and the tea they produce is very good. Knowing it would rain soon (and it did on time at 2pm!) we all decided to catch the school bus back to the town when it came past at this time. No problem catching the bus, but the road itself is very windy and quite narrow i.e. only wide enough for 1 vehicle except at passing points, over the edge is a very steep drop and it is now raining. When the bus reached the corners, it would have to back up and take it in many steps to avoid gong over the edge. Whilst attempting one of these corners, the gear box failed and the driver couldn't get it into reverse for over 5 minutes, it went eventually, but this made us a little nervous when he reached the next corners. We also noticed that he came extremely close when passing other cars and also extremely close to the edge of the road, until we actually started to come off the road.... the bus then hit a tree which luckily bounced us back onto the road, and left the tree with a suitable scar! After that we all tried to balance out where we were sitting to balance the bus and held onto our seat, but it was an adventure!!
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