Castles and churches in Gonder

Royal Enclosure
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A minibus took us the short drive from Bahir Dar to Gonder.  We arrived in the late morning but it took quite a long time to find somewhere to stay.  Part of the reason for this was my  having left my hat on the bus.  Niamh waited in a juice cafe very nice by the way, called 'Sofa') while I trudged off in the noonday heat to find the bus station.  Amazingly, I'd only just wandered into the station and started to wonder which dented little minibus I'd been on that morning when the driver's assistant came running over, my hat in his hand.

Niamh inside one of the castles
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Back in town, we managed to find a decent hotel and settled in for a little rest. Later on we went off into town to meet up with Zsolt, a Hungarian chap we'd met in Bahir Dar.  Together with Zsolt, we went for coffee in a rather odd little cafe right in the middle of Gonder.  It really did feel like it hadn't changed since the

In Gonder the kids spat, threw stones and practically chased tourists down the street. Not great.

Ceiling detail, Debre Birhan Selassie
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70's.  Poor old Zsolt seemed to be liking Gonder even less than we were and had decided to leave the next morning.  Indeed, Gonder wasn't particularly inviting.  The streets were even more dirty and rundown than usual in Ethiopia, but it was the attitude we got from the kids that really put a damper on things.  Where the usual protocol in touristy spots around Ethiopia is to merely point while shouting 'You!' repeatedly, here in Gonder the kids spat, threw stones and practically chased tourists down the street.  Not great.  On the other hand, some of the cafes are really rather good.  Sofa has fantastic mixed juice and the nameless cafe underneath the post office serves wonderful 'Nashif', a mixture of scrambled egg, bread and chili sauce.

The beautiful ceiling at Debre Birhan Selassie
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The next day we headed out early to check out the Royal Enclosure for which Gonder is known.  Inside the walled compound are many old buildings associated with the Gondorian kings.  The most interesting is a large, well-restored castle from the 13th Century.  It looks quite European, but for the domes on the tops of the towers and various other distinctions.  We wandered about inside and tried to find a way up to the rooftop tower we saw from outside.  Eventually we managed to open a large wooden door which led to a flight of stairs.  Walking down the stairs led to a large but very dark lower level.  Taking the stairs further up, we managed to reach the rooftop.  The views from up there weren't bad at all, but our enjoyment was interrupted by the shouts of a disgruntled official who seemed distinctly unhappy with us.  Time to go back down.

The priest at Debre Birhan Selassie
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The rest of the compounds buildings were interesting, though without a guide it was a little difficult to be certain of what we were looking at.  There were guides available, but their fees were a little off-putting.

After the Royal Enclosure, we took a walk out of town to find a church called Debre Birhan Selassie.  The walk took us along a winding road looking down over the surrounding hills and mountains.  However dilapidated the town of Gonder may be, the setting is quite fantastic.  The road was lined with little houses, some of mud, some brick.  People were sitting outside and the children running around on the road.  Inevitably, the children would follow us, but the adults would always restrain them before they got up to much mischief.

After about 20 minutes we reached the church.  After passing through a gate in the surrounding wall we could see the round, pillared church.  Four double doors were set into the exterior, all closed.  We didn't have to wait long, though.  After a couple of minutes some shuffling, creaking noises came from inside the church and one of the double doors opened to reveal a cheerful old priest who welcomed us inside.  The effect of the church on first entrance is one being almost enveloped by the painting on all four walls.  Ahead on the wall of the holy of holies are striking figures of the Holy Trinity, while on the walls to the left and right are startling depictions of saints and demons, still vivid after all these years. Above on the ceiling is possibly the most beautiful painting of all, ranks of angelic faces flanked by wings, gazing back down at the congregation.

The priest gave us a little tour, pointing out various saints and bible stories. He told us about St George (patron saint of Ethiopia), pointed out the depictions of the Holy Trinity and the Virgin Mary.  He was very interesting and seemed generally interested in talking to us.  The church was easily the most interesting and worthwhile thing in Gonder, for me a lot more so than the castles in the Royal Enclosure.