Romantic Porto

One ofthe Six Bridges
see more photos »

After a bit of trouble with a kamakazee taxi driver, a missed train, a train guard with authority issues and coffee with pastiche, Mac and I finally boarded our train from Lisbon to Porto - a five hour journey to northern Portugal and more UNESCO magnificence.

The train station in Lisbon is not the most exciting place to hang out for a few hours. I have to say the toilets are disgraceful and I was most pleased that I had been vaccinated against all nasties from my travels in SE Asia, I am sure it explains why I am alive today.

Mac and I committed quite a few offences during our short stay here.....

UNESCO site on the water front
see more photos »

A young woman with a ferocius expression on her face sat on a stool, cigarette hanging out of her mouth, intently watching anyone whom entered her domain, she was indeed the original "toilet bitch". The loos took 50 cens and she made sure you put the money in the door slot, there was to be no unauthorised usage here. A couple of old ladies followed me in and with great amusement I watched as she made sure they each paid their money and didnt try to pee with the one fee. I am not sure what the money went towards, but it certainly wasnt for cleaning.  After the ordeal of trying not to touch anything in the cubicle, I washed my hands and damn it if I didnt splash water on the immaculately clean vanity top - with a grunt and a scowl - the woman got up and wiped up the few drops of water I had so carelessly spilt.  I left feeling as though I had committed a crime.

12th century cathederal - Heroin anyone?
see more photos »

Mac and I committed quite a few offences during our short stay here. While I was being traumatised in the loo, Mac dared to sit on the marble floor, out of the way, against a wall, with our luggage to wait for me. He was immediately told off by the Train Guard with Issues whom had earlier told us our train had already gone, when in fact it was still there, and we could have actually caught it! Apparently sitting on the floor is just not on and judging by Mac's disgruntled attitude, our friend had not been to charm school that week.

Getting in the way of the locals at Sao Bento Train Station
see more photos »

Our next crime was completely my fault, I dont know how I could have been so careless. We were sat in the waiting room, reading. I decided to stretch out on the empty seat and rest my head against Mac while I read. It took less than five minutes for the Train Guard with Issues to storm over and in rapid Portuguese and violent hand gestures, tell me to sit up.  I of course protested my innocence but he would have none of it.

It was clearly time for coffee and pastiche.

More of Sao Bento
see more photos »

At last we arrived in Porto late afternoon and the first impression was not a good one. This side of the city was relatively 'new' and there wasnt a UNESCO whiff in the air at all. Mac had excelled himself and found a rather posh hotel for us on the Internet for a bargain price, so after the long day it was nice arrive at the hotel and be fawned over.

The desk clerk was a cracker, I wish I could remember his name! He put his heart and soul into welcoming us, he smothered us in his winning charm, looked crestfallen when we politely refused the Port he offered us (to the point I took both glasses to see him smile again). Upon our enquires about restaurants close by and tourist sites, he enthusiastically circled the map with such gusto he over wrote the street names and suburbs in black ink, which covered what we needed to see - there should be more like him!

Beautiful side of the 12 cent Catherdral
see more photos »

After settling into the gorgeous room (our home for the next three nights) we ventured out that evening and walked down Boa Vista to the sea front to find dinner. It was a good 45 minute walk and enjoyable as there are lots of fancy houses and shops to look at along the way. We reached the sea front (Fez district) and then spent another 45 minutes trying to find somewhere to eat - we just didnt know what we felt like eating, it was so quiet, most places looked closed and add to that weariness and you can imagine the conversation:

Santo Ildefonso Church
see more photos »

"What do you feel like?" - Mac

"I dont know, what do you feel like?" - Me

"I dont know, what do you feel like"? -Mac

We finally settled on the best chinese I have had in years - what I wouldnt give to have one of those dumplings again!

Ribeira
see more photos »

The next day we began to explore the city and it is truly a beautiful place with so much to see. I would recommend doing the open bus top tour as it will give you a great overview of the city and its history. It should only take an hour - unless you get caught in a traffic jam caused by a small car wedged against a bus, it must have taken some real skill to achieve this. The little bingle happened not very far from the police barracks and it took forever for the police to turn up, of course that didnt actually solve anything but I think everyone watching felt better.

One of the 'must see' things in Porto is the Sao San Francisco. It is a massive romanesque cathedral and the interior is just breathtaking with the heavily carved and guilded woodwork that covers most of the inside walls. There are statues of saints re enacting famous religous scenes - of couse they chose the gruesome beheading tale. There is also the obligatory ancient tomb in the corner, disturbing corspe like Mary and Jesus lifesize figures in glass coffins and a magnificent alter full of gold, colour and more intricate carvings.  We had the place to ourselves and with choir music playing, it all seemed quite etheral. Mac and I sat in the front pew at the altar. I really couldnt say how long we sat there together, just absorbing the peace and beauty but I will never forget that moment in time for as long as I live.

Another really nice thing to do is the Six Bridge River Cruise on the Douro where you only see five bridges. We did the sunset cruise and it was pretty romantic. Make sure you board the boat before the hoards come, or you will have to stand or be stuck inside (not a bad place to be when they hand out the Port!).  We had a really stunning sunset that turned the river pink, purple and blue and great views of the UNESCO listed houses along the Ribeira and the Port cellars on the opposite bank. As the sun set, lights came on in the houses and streets and the cityscape changed again.  The cruise lasts about an hour and is a very pleasant distraction.

One totally unexpected event I came across was a group of junkies shooting up Heroin near the 12th century 'Cathedral'. Mac had gone off to arrange his race details(he is determined to run 10 kms in every country and is raising money for his favourite charity GOAL) so I had leisurely afternoon to myself. Armed with our Lonely Planet Guide, I began to explore the medieval streets of Riberia and was heading towards the Cathedral up an large flight of stairs when I rounded the corner and ran into six people shooting up! I will never know if it was a harmless act or not but let me tell you, when one of mangy looking crew made a quick movement towards me I ran up those stairs faster than any time Mac put in during his marathons.

Porto would also have to have the most ornate and beautiful train station I have ever seen. The Sao Bento interior is decorated with colourful mosiacs depicting various scenes. You can spot the tourists - we are the ones stood in the way of the locals trying to get home, staring up in amazement!!

Not very far from Sao Bento is the Rue Caterina, this is a very long shopping street with hundreds of shops, most of them selling shoes. There are tiny shops that just sell buttons or costume jewellery and jewellery shops that makes your credit card shrink in fear, it is an enjoyable stroll even if you dont buy anything.

Mac had entered the 10km half marathon that was to be run early in the morning of our last day. By  8:00AM in 2 degrees chill we joined the thousands of enthusiastic runners eagerly awaiting for the race to start. I had the highly important role of Support Crew, entrusted with warm post race clothes and the heavy responsiblity of photographing him at the finish line - oh the pressure. Mac finished in just over 40 minutes which was a great effort and my photo wasnt too bad either.

There was only one thing left to do, have coffee and Pastiche.