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My time in Zhongdian 中甸

From Backpack to China 中国 in China on Apr 12 '05

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Old town, behind are Scripture Chamber and Guishan Gongyuan
Old town, behind are Scripture Chamber and Guishan Gongyuan
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Zhongdian

From Qiaotou I took a public bus to Zhongdian, I was very excited to go Zhongdian because it is very close to Deqin, people name there as Shangri-La, why a place was name it differently?

Explore alone in Zhongdian (China)

There was once I watch on TV program talking about this place Shangri-La, it looks a very special place.

Town area, snow mountain view
Town area, snow mountain view
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From Lijiang to Zhongdian it takes 198km, Zhongdian is a Tibetan town known as Gyeltang or Gyalthang in Tibetan.

So many hours on the bus, it was a long journey to Zhongdian, when I reach Zhongdian it was about evening time, I've to quickly find a place to stay before the sky when dark. When I finally found a place to stay, just have check in to one of the international youth hostel, I went and check out on their toilet, there was no hot shower and toilet was very dirty, very smelly, I cannot believe it, how they expect foreigner to stay there, I quickly change my mind and check out immediately.

Tibetan prayer flags
Tibetan prayer flags
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I walked further to look for another place to stay, I found an Tibetan hotel come with hostel, I went and check in there for a night as the sky was getting dark.

In the hostel room, there was no one else accept me, it was not a surprise to me at all, during the low season in China, most of the hostel I had stayed, I was alone in the big room, very good deal right.

I went out for dinner, came back, there were two roommates from Thailand to room together with me, they were heading to the mountain the next day, asking me whether want to join them, I was not prepare to go anywhere yet, they went themselves the next day morning.

Tibet Hotel, already running down inside when I was there, the bell boy told me they might renovate the whole area.
Tibet Hotel, already running down inside when I was there, the bell boy told me they might renovate the whole area.
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As for me, the next day, I was exploring around and found a hotel very different out look, it name Tibet Hotel, there was hostel inside, I check out the Tibetan hostel and went to stay Tibet Hotel. I was in Tibet Hotel for a few nights before I carry out my journey to Sichuan.

While I was still in Zhongdian, I explore the town; it was a small town, not many people on the street, and a few groups of the tourist only as it was not a peak season.

Behind the Tibet Hotel there is this old town, most of the local people has moved out and the whole area has been renovated with new look.

Ganden Sumtseling Gompa monastery
Ganden Sumtseling Gompa monastery
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Those who were there on their own way to Zhongdian were on their way to Tibet or Sichuan, Zhongdian is the last stop in Yunnan. Those who were on groups, they were the visitors to Zhongdian as it is know as Shangri-La area a famous spot here.

When I was in Zhongdian, I can't really see what so special about here, why it is so famous here, I couldn't understand.

As I explore further, took a public bus to explore outside the town area, I came to another new town, out of surprise, it is a small town but have this little monastery here which name Garden Sumtseling Gompa, which is like a little “Potala Palace” in Tibet, Ha..ha.. of course this is a mini size of what you can see in “Potala Palace”. This little town here was a bit special, it reminds me of the time when I was in Tibet in year 2002.

The local people I've meet in Ganden Sumtseling Gompa town.
The local people I've meet in Ganden Sumtseling Gompa town.
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After visited the monastery, I walked around the little town, meet the local people while I was taking my personal photo, he came and take a picture with me, after taking, he walked away, as I took some time to take some photos around.

Then I walked further up, I meet the local man again, he was with his local friends seating on the ground under the sun, I walked towards them, seat down with them for a while and talk to them, they don't speak very well Chinese, the old man speak to me in his own local language but I could understand and reply in Chinese (ha..ha… this happen to me many times in different provinces). Is fun to talk to the local people, I had a wonderful time explore to this town.

Now I knew why there were so many visitors want to come to Zhongdian, all because of this little monastery here, it is to get a taste of Tibet if they can't make it to the real thing.

The peak season here is mid-June; it is their horse-racing festival, dancing, singing, eating and horse-racing. Another festival is around September where you need to book your hotel in advance.

I was thinking of going to visit DeQin of north-west 168km away which is very close to Tibet boarder, unfortunately there was heavy snows and the road was close, I was unable to go, the local people mention to me have to wait for a few days, and see what is the out come.

As I was in Yunnan for about a month, I was looking forward to cross over to Sichuan boarder, so instead of waiting for the news to go DeQin (also name as "Shangri-la"), I've decided to move on.

It takes a few days on the bus hopping to Chendu. I've read the book, it mention that the road is rough, travel at some very high altitudes (high land) on the way (you need warm clothes), it is risky if you are attack by AMS (mountain sickness). I've no plan to turn around, my plan was going to Sichuan, with no further thoughts, and I'd booked my bus ticket to carry on my journey.

My China “B” friend (from Guangzhou) remember, she was on her way to Zhongdian, she was attack by AMS, she got all the symptoms of the mountain sickness, she got no choice turn around and went back to Lijiang.

Zhongdian is at 3200m height, my body can take it, therefore, I didn't get any attack of the AMS but moving to Sichuan, it is 100% above 5000 to 8000m height, the mountain symptom may happen if I'm not prepare for it.

I knew how it was like to encounter mountain sickness; it was not a good feeling at all.

On my way to Sichuan was not an easy journey… to know more about my journey to Sichuan, click on next to read further.


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