Yaktown
From Trains and Boats then Planes in Litang, China on Apr 27 '06
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We left Kangding at 7am and boarded a crowded minibus (we were pretty much sitting on our backpacks) west for Litang, on the Sichuan-Tibet highway. The scenery is spectacular, the roads twist and our fellow passengers and driver spat and smoked the whole way. I was the only girl on the bus, so when it came to a toilet stop I was obligated to pee behind a large hairy pig for privacy. It didn't seem to mind though.
At certain high passes there are prayer flags and sometimes a stupa by the roadside. This sight prompts the Tibetans to shout something out and take their hats off. The first time we nearly jumped out of our skins but we got pretty used to it. We're not sure but we think it's a prayer of thanks for still being alive on the treacherous winding road.
The town itself is like something out of a cowboy movie
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Litang is 4200 metres above sea level, Cathal got a little breathless on the journey but we were essentially fine.
The town itself is like something out of a cowboy movie, it's in the middle of nowhere, there are yaks wandering around the street, dogs everywhere, and people sitting in doorways just watching the world go by. I attracted a small crowd of girls and women who appeared to be fascinated by my appearance. I was equally fascinated by them. A lot of the women wear Tibetan head-dress and robes similar to Mongolian dels, they have heavy silver and turquoise earrings and sometimes silver pouches hanging around their waists. The are often seen with a small child strapped to their backs on a motorbike.
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The men are very cool though. Most of them have flowing black hair, and moustaches, they wear cowboy hats, often have necklaces and hair ornaments, they have long robes too and best of all have 70s type aviator sunglasses. Astride their motorbikes, complete with fake roses and carpet covered speakers they rock. Literally. There's a lot of Tibetan dance type music about and they like it loud.
We went to the monastery this morning, and were going to bathe in the hot springs (our "foreigner approved hotel" has no running water like most of the town) but given the amount of attention we attract wherever we go, I chickened out. Not ready for that kind of exposure - I made use of the thermos of hot water we were given for tea and consider myself succiently clean!
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The plan is to go to the next town Xiangcheng and stay overnight before going to Zhongdian. We've asked about buses three times now, and no joy, so who knows when we get outta here.
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