More Roadtrips, Eilat, and finally... Dahab
From Mel's Middle Eastern Mumblings in Dahab, Egypt on Apr 27 '06
We left for Eilat on Thursday.. 2pm from the Central Bus Station in Jerusalem. The group consisted of myself, Elina, Jordan, Jason, Mark, Maibritt and Maya. Like schoolkids we made sure we got the back seats. Actually, Jordan ended up giving his seat to a young arab woman with her child as there weren't enough to go around (who the HELL sells too many seats for a 5 hour coach ride?!). We were all pretty tired and tried in vain to sleep on the journey. We resorted to playing games such as 'Eye Spy' which I pretty much killed by using such words as 'Upholstery' and 'Foliage' which noone guessed, and got annoyed at me for laughing when they didn't.
The Dead Sea was still blue and inviting. Hopefully some day I will visit its salty waters for a dip. Finally, after hours of driving through the Negev, and countless requests for my version of the Islamic Call To Prayer (Jordan's going to get me killed one of these days, for requesting it in inappropriate places), we arrived, sweaty and tired. On exiting the bus we were approached by barging hostel touts, all trying to drag us to their hostel. I managed to get us a 40 shekel per night deal, nearby (the hostel those who were there were staying at was 85 per night - Eilat is expensive) in a very nice and cosy hostel.
After meeting up with Rob, Ville and Janina, we ate out at a pizzeria, and then walked along the promenade, browsed the stalls, ate some ice-cream, and then after a brief sit on the beach, headed home to our hostels.
Today an early start, Elina and I made our way to the Egyptian Embassy, only to find it was closed. Called the others and arranged to meet at the other hostel. After much discussion, we decided to go to the border in Taba, regardless and ask if there was any other way we could secure a visa for Cairo. It turns out there is not. However, we decided to go to Dahab anyway, as Eilat is expensive, and we were impatient to meet Murphy and Ben. As usual Jordan got his ass kissed by every official for being Australian. I swear Aussies can do no wrong! Ville created a scene by walking through the border wearing a 'Don't worry America! Israel is behind you!' tee shirt (bloody hell, what was he thinking when he got up in the morning??) When we noticed, Jason chucked him a jacket and made him wear it until he had a chance to change into something less conspicuous. As we entered Egypt it seemed like the heat just hit us more so than even Eilat! Taba is only a short drive from Eilat, too. The Egyptian official who stamped our passports, bestoyed weird comments onto all of us. He asked Jason very seriously why he had an earring in one ear, and then when I was up next, continued to question me about it. He seemed to think it was something very sinister - I have no idea what. For Jordan he said 'What are you doing with you hair?' Jordan replied with 'I'm growing it.' 'Why?' 'Because I like it' 'It looks stupid. Cut it.' *stamp*
Strange.
We hired a car and driver to take us to Dahab. I have a feeling we were completely ripped off, but it was still cheap by English standards, and the bus wouldn't come for another 5 hours. We could have got paid less than half what we did, but it would have been with a turbanned, dodgy looking Egyptian - we used a company and it was all very official - receipts, uniforms, etc. What with all the terrorist activity in the region, it's probably best not to take any chances.
The roadtrip was uneventful, apart from various passport checks - I think I counted 3 or 4. I believe they have stepped up security since the bombings on Monday and Wednesday. We had to pay a couple of taxes... which lead to the ongoing joke of every time we were stopped by officials 'Oh no - it's the You Don't Have A Moustache tax' or 'Get out your wallets, kids. It's the You're Speaking With A Silly Voice tax'.
The scenery itself was pretty bland. Just endless desert. The occasional camel, many goats, rubble, etc. When we finally arrived in Dahab, we were crazy to get out of the car after the cramped conditions (there were 8 of us, as Maibritt and Maya stayed in Eilat). It took a while for the driver to find Seven Heaven - the hostel Murphy and Ben were staying at. Finally we found it, unpacked our things, and were ushered to a seafront restaurant by the hostel owner. We were given a free lemon drink and obviously coerced into eating there. What a scam! hehe... Oh well - it was cheap and the food was good, and view superb. We were seated outdoors on sofas with overhead drapings and lamps. After dinner the waiter brought us 2 hookahs filled with different flavoured tobaccos for us to smoke. He told Jordan to return later if he wanted to try something stronger. Hmmmmm...
After dinner, we were shown around the hostel. We decided on the straw huts that adorned the top of the hostel. Elina, Janina and I have crammed into one. It's 7.5 Egyptian Pounds each (about 75p) per night. Bargain! I went for a nap for a few hours, and then after showering, we headed to a restaurant called Shark, to meet the others. The food was inexpensive and tasty. We were all sat on cusions around a low table, on a balcony overlooking the sea. It was dark, but the promenade was lit by fairylights and there were a group of Egyptians singing and playing instruments in the street. Scrawny stray cats roamed freely among us, while we ate, hoping to be thrown bits of our dinner. There was a small kitten seated on top of a cabinet mewing at us for attention. When we finally left, we headed to a bar further down called Adam's Bar, where they showed movies and beer was just 5 Egyptian Pounds for a pint bottle. Braveheart was on. Yawn. I ended up discussing movies with Jordan after Rob accused me of not liking anyone or anything, as apparently I'm so critical about everything. Which is true. I am always accused of that. However... Nicholas Cage? Bruce Willis? Kevin Costner? C'mon! Bland, bland, BLAND!
I decided to leave the pub before the end of the movie. Murphy said he'd never seen it so quiet. We all wandered down to where the bombs went off. Crazy thing is that Al Capone's - where my brother Mark had recommended I go - was one of the places bombed. Not that you would recognise that now. It's fully operational already. The area further down that was also bombed, stank and still hadn't been cleared up. There are many anti-terrorism signs hung from bars and shops. We munched ice-creams and had a look around for where to go tomorrow night. Tomorrow a group of us are due to go to The Blue Hole. Haven't decided yet if I'm going to go, or just chill out here in Dahab - it may be nice to have a day by myself after all the madness.
Where have you been lately?
Share your travels with friends & family

- Free Travel Blog
- Stunning maps
- Share experiences
- Automatic emails
- Unlimited photos
- Unlimited entries




Would you like to comment or ask a question?