Jordan - Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, and Petra

And now I will begin to tell you about the experience that was Jordan.

It would take a lifetime to relay to you the trip in its entirety. 'Mike' (not his real name - that being some unmemorable and arabic) was comical, if a little crazy. He seemed at the begining, easy-to-please, but it quickly became apparent (as he did randomly stupid things, such as adopt 10 other strangers at the ferry port in Aqaba) that he was missing some brain cells. A retired British couple and a Kiwi the other half of the tour-group (Elina, Janina and myself being the initial half). We were separated into 2 hire cars - Mike driving one, and eventually Russ (the British man) driving the other - the hired driver, just taking it easy and riding along (don't ask). When we were separated from the second car early on, in Aqaba, I asked Mike where they were (we'd slowed down briefly on the motorway, and rolled down the window to have a discussion in Arabic a few minutes previously) - he answered 'To get Cashews'.

Erm. Silly me.

We arrived in Wadi Rum after dark. The royal helicopter was sat beside our camp. Aparently - according to 'Mike', that is - they are very approachable, and you can just go up and talk to them. We tried, but the prince was somewhere near a mountain, we were tired, and so left it, thinking we'd have a chance later on. As it turned out, we missed him. We entered the camp, that was beside a latern-lit mountain. Jordanian's were dancing around a campfire to arabic music, and a fantastic buffet was ready for all.

We ended the evening joining in the dancing, and then retired, exhausted to our tents for rest before waking early to see the sunrise.

5am we were told. By MIKE. Bloody Mike.

No sign of the sun for a good hour. We walked through the desert (Janina, Elina and I, that is), found a spot, and willed the sun to rise. It didn't. I was tempted to run over to the mountain and drag its lazy ass up, just so I could get back to bed. However, I comforted myself with the fact I would get another hour before we left for our jeep tour.

I didn't. We breakfasted after the non-descript sunrise, and were led to our jeep.

Let me tell you - this by FAR was the best part of the entire trip. The guide spoke little English, but was awesome, nonetheless. We drove over huge sand-dunes, drove for miles - I don't know how he knew his way - found a mountain, which was crawled inside a chasm, in true Indiana Jones moment, found a 'map' which had been carved in stone thousands of years previously, showing where to find water. Some of the 'wells' had since dried up, but not all.

We had to stop to fill up with petrol, at one point. We drove to someone's yard, where a young boy took out some cans and filled up the jeep. A young girl of about 8 came over to the car and offered me a red rose. Being warped in my thinking from the Palestinian kids in Israel who give you something and then when you accept it with thanks, stick out their hand and say 'Shekel, shekel', and declined. However, as she persisted, I took it, only for her to shyly smile and back away.

I guess she just liked me. I put the flower in my hair behind my ear, and she seemed tickled pink.

Our guide took us to a moutainuos sand-dune that we were to climb. After an exhaaaaaaaaaauuusting climb (and much grumbling, on my part), we had a glorious view of the desert which granduated out into different colours of sand. the journey down was certainly more enjoyable, as we rolled, lept and (in my case) walked down.

At the bottom, waiting for us, was some sweet Bedouin tea, served by a young Beduoin in a white gown. We drank it up, goofed around taking photos of eachother, and set back off on the road.

Next stop was another clamber up a mountain. I had to lug my camera, so I was somewhat handicapped, but managed regardless. Oh how I was proud of myself.

After th jeep-ride had ended (3 hours or more later), we set off for the Dead Sea.

I changed cars about half way and drove with The Brits and the Kiwi guy. We played silly car games, and munched junk food. We were confused as to where we were headed, as we could have turned off to the Dead Sea many times, but carried on following Mike, until after hours of driving, we were almost in Amman (for those of you who don't know - Amman isn't too far from the Syrian border). We were also seeing signposts to Iraq! Actually, seeing the signposts to Iraq really made my day (being that I currently have a brother out there).

Finally we turned for the Dead Sea, and drove downwards (its the lowest point in the world). It was scorching when we exited the cars. We ate at a buffet restaurant and then walked down to the beach.

I walked in gingerly after the others. I didn't feel anything. I lay down. I was beginning to think I had put on a lot more weight than I realised, when the Dead Sea started to work its magic and I had no control over my legs as they rose to the top of the water. There were squeals of delight from everyone, but I lasted only 10 minutes before I'd had enough, discovering cuts I hadn't realised I had, and so ventured on to the shower instead.

We didn't stay long before we decided to brave the drive to Petra, to our hotel for the night.

This is where tempers became fraught. Mike said 2.5 hours. It took 4.5. He made up a load of excuses as to why, not wanting to admit he'd messed up and didn't know his way from the Dead Sea and only Aqaba. He had changed our itinerary so many times, it was a shambles. We arrived so late, that we'd missed dinner at the hotel ('full board'). Everyone was mad, as we had to get up early - 5.30am for an early start to Petra.

To cut a long story short of everyone losing their tempers, we had not much sleep, got in the cars the next day. Mike then asked the girls and I for money (when noone was around). To backtrack... he is from our hostel, and I only agreed to go on the trip when he lowered the price considerably for me. THEN the cashpoints in Dahab weren't working on our day of departure, so we told him, and he told us not to worry, we could pay when we got to a cashpoint. So... he bloody raised the price when we were in Jordan! We were furious. Janina started yelling at him 'This is bullshit!' (she can be a bit fearsome, sometimes). The others had got out of their car, came over to see what the commotion was about, started yelling at us, and then at him... and

It was not a pleasant situation.

Finally we gave him some of the money, saying we'd give him more later, but the original quoted price. We arrived in Petra - hardly anyone looking, let alone talking to one another.

After entering the grounds, we marched off, regardless of Mikes attempts to make us stay for the guide. He was so unreliable, that we didn't believe him.

It was CRAZY to finally be in Petra after all these years of hearing about it, seeing photos, and generally wanting to be there! The only disappointment was how tired I was. We all were tired, but I was the most, having missed so much sleep over the past week. Petra is beautiful. However, it definitely would have been more interesting to see when it was a real city with people living there. Somehow being a 'tourist city' (only open for people to poke at things and take photos) made it somewhat sterile.

We ate breakfast, were finally found by the guide (who told us he'd taken around Bill Clinton, Tony Blair, and Jack Straw on separate occasions) who was most informative. However, Elina, Janina and I left the breakfast table to find a cave to rest in. There are thousands upon thousands of caves stretching out as far as the eye can see. We found a cave that had 2 rooms, and lay about, until rested before clambering around and seeing the sites. Obviously we saw the very famous Tresurey on entrance from the Siq. The Monastery was too much to take - a 45 minute trek of over a thousand steps - so instead we climbed a nearby mountain and soaked up the view, enjoying the wind in our hair. There were tonnes of donkeys, goats, horses and camels all being used as transport for the tourists. I've decided I now love camels! They're gorgeous.

Hours later and we met the others at the entrance. I was given a Jordanian flag by some guy who took a fancy to me. Strange. This was after he'd decided to randomly swath me in a white piece of fabric, so that I resembled a mummy. Sheesh.

Mike got into a fight with a man in Petra, and also driving out - he had parked in front of some cars and left his car. He returned to find someone reversing his car. Cue a fight. We were sat in the car by this time, as the man tried to stratch Mikes eyes out, and Mike tried to get the police.

Boy oh boy. Mike could start a fight with his shadow.

Back to Aqaba, and on this occasion we had a yaght for our return to Egypt. Definitely the way to travel, we sat on the deck, as the light faded, cutting through the sea, we relaxed watching the coast of Jordan turn into Saudi Arabia, and then docked as we turned right to Egypt. It took about 1.5 hours. After docking and sorting out our visas for Cairo, we drove back to Dahab.

Dahab. This place sure feels like home. I am so sad to leave, but on to a new era, I say! We ran into Lachlan(the Aussie guy biking around the world, who I met in J/Slem). Adele had told me he was on his way here. He's accompanying us to dinner tonight before we get the nightbus to Cairo.

Cairo. I have been in two minds as to whether or not to do, but who knows when I'll be in this part of the world again. Saturday is my flight back to the UK. Yes, I'm returning for the summer, guys! I guess I should take in as much of the world as possible. Dahab is the closest to paradise I've been.

So, what the hell am I doing sitting in front of a computer on my last day?!??!?! Get me out there!

Next entry will probably be from Jerusalem (after Cairo). Bye for now!