The Jewel in the Crown

Oaxaca is one of those places that leaves you enchanted by its rich embracing culture and history. It is a whirlwind of colours, scents and sounds that make this the most exciting destination in Mexico so far. Mexico is the meeting point of indigenous America and colonial Europe and nowhere is this more accented than in this glorious city.

Oaxaca has had a turbulent past in recent years. This is mostly due to the fact that the state of Oaxaca (of which Oaxaca city is the capital)has one of the highest poverty levels in Mexico. In the early 90's, the teachers of the State stood up in protest in an effort to change the tradition of ignoring those most vulnerable. It was astounding to note that previously, it had been seventy years since the federal government of Oaxaca had funded public education, leaving marginalised impoverished communities with no other option but to follow their limited destinies. Teachers objected to what they viewed as racist, degrading treatment of the indigenous communities, a practice which has continued (throughout Latin America) for over five hundred years.

The street up to the market has an abundance of chocolate shops where the smell of grounded cocoa beans, used for making mole, is difficult to resist.

Fierce battles commenced between government armed forces and a peaceful non-violent teachers union. In effect, Oaxaca was paralysed due to the protest for approximately six months. Walking through the shady plazas and the winding cobbled streets to the astonishing baroque churches, the thought of excessive violence is unimaginable.

I strongly recommend a visit to the Museum of Photography if you want to find out more about Oaxaca's political past. It holds a collection of thought provoking and moving photos of the era. You can also see a documentary which explains the reasons for the teachers' strike and make your own mind up. One deeply poignant image was of an elderly indigenous lady dressed in traditional clothing, brushing white lilies over the shields and helmets of the national army as they lined up in full riot gear.  It is certainly worth a visit, even if only out of artistic interest.

No visit is complete without a trip to the market. There are hundreds of tiny markets but the main market off the main plaza will transport you into a labyrinth of tiny passages crowded with everything from colourful birthday pinadas to hair products. The street up to the market has an abundance of chocolate shops where the smell of grounded cocoa beans, used for making mole, is difficult to resist. The sounds of cumbia and tropical leave you with little doubt about the Mexican obsession with music and dance.

This is true of people of all ages. Whilst people watching outside the cathedral and chatting to a couple of street vendors, the crowds suddenly made way for an evening of dance. Danzon is a popular Mexican dance which originated from Cuba in the 19th century. It is influenced by cha cha cha, son and even elements of tango. It is easy to pass away idle hours just watching how people enjoy and celebrate music and dance. Dancing is held every Wednesday evening at around 7pm. If you would like to learn this dance, you will find plenty of wiling teachers; I was taught by a ninety year old man who had more agility than most men my age.

I would also recommend the Santo Domingo church and the adjoining convent. Its most amazing feature is its internal decoration. The church opens for visitors at 4pm and it is at this time that the sunlight that streams through its stain glass windows, illuminates the golden interior in all of its splendour. It seemed that no expense was spared when building this church. I come from a country famed for its elaborate churches, but this one truly left me breathless.

In this beautiful, magical country, Oaxaca is by far the most spell bounding that I have come across so far. Do not miss this delightful gem.