Lyon, Day 2

With Paul Bocuse
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15 October 2006

Dondi T. joined us from Geneva for the weekend and we all went to lunch at the Bistro de Lyon for simple "homecooked" meals.  Frank and I shared chicken stew, which was what we needed after all the rich meals we've had, and in preparation for "Paul Bocuse" restaurant tonight.

Before dinner, Dondi and I went for cocktails at the apartment of French royals (one's a Baron and the other is a Marquis) he had hosted in Geneva.  Frank and Jeff decided to meet us at the restaurant.

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Jean Pierre and Patrice offered us champagne and pate and ham when we got there.  Their friends Philippe, Nuna, Gerard and Bathilde were also there.  It was pretty interesting talking to Phillipe and later on, Bathilde.  Phillipe lives in Burgundy and is also involved in restaurants; he seems to have gone through different careers and is very knowledgeable about my industry as well.  Bathilde is young and is passionate about issues currently plaguing France.  Gerard, her husband, is the owner and editor of a paper, "Les Potins".  The time we had was too short because before we knew it, Dondi and I had to leave for dinner.  Jean Pierre invited us for brunch tomorrow - we'll ask the others what they feel like doing.

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Paul Bocuse is considered THE restaurant to go to, the top of the top, the mecca for all gourmands.  Phillipe said that there are 26 3-star restaurants in Lyon and Paul Bocuse remains number one.  I made the reservations weeks before we left.

We got there and immediately knew that we were in for a wonderful treat.  The menu is huge and it took a lot of discussion before we could decide what we wanted.  I asked if Paul Bocuse could come over and we had our picture taken with him before our meal.

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We were given what seemed to be pumpkin soup as the "amuse bouche" or a taste of what is to come;  Its sweetness was a perfect complement to the savory, flaky bread that came with it.

For appetizers, I had "escargot de bourgogne en coquilles au beurre persille" while the others had "escalope de foie gras de canard poelee au verjus, pomme gaufrette", seared foie gras with an apple wafer .  My escargots were baked in butter and parsley in individual ceramic shells.  I tried the foie gras and, as Frank puts it, "L'Etage's was tasty, but this is the best"!

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Dondi and I shared their award winning soup, "soupe aux truffes noires" - imagine an onion soup bowl crusted with a croissant-like, flaky, lopsided chef's hat.  We broke through the crust and scooped out the soup.  It looked so simple yet was amazing in the cornucopia of flavors that exploded inside our mouth.  It had thinly sliced truffles, diced chorizo and carrots and other vegetables I could not identify, in a clear broth.  The soup and the escargot alone justified our visit to this restaurant.  BUT there was more to look forward to.

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Dondi and I shared the "volaille de Bresse rotie a la broche", roasted chicken from Bresse.  A favorite of chefs, this choice chicken is easily recognized by their distinctive white plumage, bright red wattle, and blue grey legs.  These chickens are raised in the open for 12 weeks and spend the last fortnight being fed with corn and milk to fatten them up.  The chicken was presented in two parts - first, the dark meat with its brown sauce, which must have been emulsified from its drippings; second, the breast with lettuce in a caesar-like dressing, and the brown sauce.  The chicken was very tender and had a hint of creamy gamey-ness that was very pleasant and tasty.  Believe it or not, I could not finish the meal; I had to leave space for dessert!!!

I decided to forego the cheeses but J&F had a pick of the choicest - the selection was amazing!  It was a whole 2' x 3' tray of different sizes and shapes.

I opted for the "ouef a la neige" - which is a flottante (same as I had in Cliousclat) - sweet meringue puffs poached in milk, chilled, drizzled with caramel, and served with creme anglaise (yummmmmmy!); and fresh raspberries to cleanse my palate.  Jeff had the baba a rhum; Frank had the tarte tatin like none we've tasted before; and Dondi had fruits in creme anglais.  They also gave us petits fours (macarons again!) and chocolates.  This restaurant just keeps on stuffing you with excellent food!  Not one thing did not taste good!  (Apologies for the double negative.)

I count myself so lucky and blessed to be able to treat myself to a meal such as this.  Who says hard work doesn't pay off?!  I don't know if I will ever have a meal like this EVER again in my life but to have had it is just such a wonderful experience and I hope I was able to transport you "there" with me.

Bonsoir!