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Tangalle - the cave temples of Mulgirigalla

From The Ashbo World Tour in Tangalle, Sri Lanka on Jan 12 '08

Trace & Simon has visited no places in Tangalle
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Tuk tuk journey
Tuk tuk journey
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The bus driver from Mirissa to Tangalle was particularly demonic and on this trip we had the distinction of running over our first dog. The poor thing had no chance as it ran out in front of a bus travelling at least three times a speed that was safe and with a driver that clearly had had an argument with his wife that morning and decided to take his anger out on his passengers and anything that dared get in his way.

I saw a quick flash of something "dog shaped" and then the sickening sound and feel as something large is dragged under the bus. Looking out the back window my fears were confirmed. Even the poor ladies sitting on the back seat looked horrified. The bus driver didn't even blink and certainly no stupid dog was going to spoil his fun and we ploughed on without even braking.

View from our hotel room
View from our hotel room
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Our reason for going to Tangalle was to see the Buddhist cave temples and paintings way up in the hills about 16km inland at Mulgirigalla. So as soon as we had found a hotel, which was right on the beach, we dropped our bags off while the tuk tuk driver waited for us and immediately set off to the caves. A thirty minute tuk tuk ride up into the hills and we were standing at the bottom of a big hill with lots of steps to climb. The caves themselves are on four terraces that are situated ever higher up the hill. Each one seemed more impressive than the last with the cave roofs and walls having been painted with frescoes showing stories from the life of Buddha. Each cave also had a number of statues of Buddha in them. Most of which were carved out of sheer rock and then painted. The most impressive were the large reclining Buddhas that dominated some of the cave temples. Remarkably, even though they were built two thousand years ago they are still in use and while we were there a group of young disciples were performing their "pooja" or prayers and offerings.

The faithful climbing up to the temples
The faithful climbing up to the temples
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That evening, our host dosed us up on the local liquor 'Arrack' (fermented coconut juice) and taught us how to play the popular Sri Lankan board game 'carrom'.  Carrom is somewhere in between draughts and billiards (without a billiards stick - you flick the pieces into the corner nets using your fingers).  We were rubbish, a game which takes the locals 10 mins took us 1 hour!  Eventually the arrack beat us and we stumbled off to bed.


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