Sleeping with Pigeon Ghosts

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By Christina

Arriving in Normandy late in the day following our journey from Paris (via Chartres), we were thrilled to discover that our “pigeon house” accommodations were truly fantastic. Okay, I will explain: we are staying at the 400+ years old Le Manoir de Herouville (just outside of Bayeux) in a building known as the Pigeonniere. We have heard several explanations, but apparently, the pigeon house was a sign of wealth that only that fancy manors could afford (or were allowed) to have. I still think there must have been some pigeon chowing going on, but our guide yesterday vehemently denied that.

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The circular stone building has all of these small holes inside it where the pigeons used to roost. There are three levels: a living area, our room and then at the top under the eves, a room for the kids. The views out the window are stunning – French countryside for miles around and very few buildings. It is quiet and cozy and we love it. Perhaps I am going on and on because this spot stands in stark contrast to our little hole in Paris (25 square meters!) which was crowded and noisy!

The grounds are also worth mentioning. There is a play structure and pond for fishing, and there are chickens, ducks, roosters and geese running around. On nearby fields the local farmers’ horses and cows hang out. Abby has befriended a rooster named Auzzie. (Evidently, the owners smuggled his egg in from Australia, ergo his name). She and Auzzie “play” together and chase the chickens. He even crows for her outside our door when she is inside! Grayson is psyched because they have a cache of WWII ordinance in the barns. We’re talking some huge guns here – Grayson could tell you the names and calibers, but it is really a sight to see!

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The owners do not know a lot about the house, but they were told that German officers lived in the manor building during the occupation years. I can understand why the Germans would choose such a beautiful spot.

Our first full day in Normandy started with a visit to the Bayeux tapestry. We were all very surprised at how much we enjoyed the 70 meter long tapestry and learning about William the Conqueror’s exploits. It is remarkable that this 1000+ year old piece of fabric has survived through the years. Next, a visit to the museum in Caen set the stage for our upcoming tour of the D-day beaches. We capped off the day with a drive along the coast and a yummy seafood meal at the quaint seaside hamlet of Honfleur.

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Finally, a word about food: it’s all about the bread! Low carb diet? Not! We are LOVING the tartes, croissants, baguettes and every other bread item we try. We also have enjoyed the wine, chocolate, and cheese. The fish and mussels in Honfleur weren’t so bad either. Needless to say, we are starting to feel the effects of all this food – Dan and I plan to run (for the first time) tomorrow!

P.S. Good luck to Sofa-Loafa at Orinda Idol on Saturday!