The Wonders of a Hindu and Buddhist Past

Stressed out Becak Driver, Jogja
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Heading for Jogja

The world knows Indonesia as a Muslim country, and associates all Islamic stereotypes with it. The reality is a lot different. The Indonesians are actually quite moderate and tolerant Muslims and a case in point for this argument are the attractions around Jogja. The magnificent Borobudur is a Buddhist monument to rival the best in Asia. The other side of the city Prambanan stands as a relic of the Hindu past of the area. Jogja has sprung up as an arts centre also with lots of annoyances to go with it. It was all ahead of me.

Muslims protecting their Buddhist and Hindu past was heartening

Shadow Puppets from behind the stage
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Jogja is proud of the fact that the local sultan rules. It's not the corrupt elected politicians that line their pockets, but the family of the sultan. Everyone knows the wealth of their ruler, but they also know that the Sultan's rule and policies have their interests as number one. He does a lot for the locals and they appreciate it.

My arrival was on a minibus from Probolingo at about 4am. There were no shortage of guys that sprung to life along the back alleys with the guesthouses to try and fill one of the last beds available in town, quite literally. It certainly couldn't be described as luxury where I ended up, but a few hours sleep were secured before I finally got a bit of luck and scored one of the best guesthouses in the area. Things were looking up. I was spending a few days in the area, the first I reserved for wandering to get a feel of the place. The city centre market was one of the largest covered markets I have ever come across. Not much of a tourist variety but hey, how could that be a bad thing. The two levels throbbed with people buying and selling.

Shadow Puppets in action
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Out and About

One of the real nuisances about the city is Batik. It's a local art where designs are printed onto cotton sheets. Beautiful workmanship, but the galleries are endless and the touts more than a little persistent. People that you meet under the most random of circumstances are really not to be trusted. One guy at the market with a little clothes stall. He spoke a bit of English, and brought me to his friend at the back of the market selling spices. His friend just happened to know of the best batik school in the city that was having an exhibition. One day per month they sell the students works to the public. I was in luck! After a while, it was like a broken record with other random encounters. Even stranger, afterwards it seemed like these encounters were my doing and not initiated by some stranger.

Shadow Puppets in action
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That night, I took in the last piece of Indonesian traditional performance that I really wanted to see, shadow puppets. I came away with mixed feelings, none related to the performance. It took place in a city centre museum, the cast were so traditional that some may even have started the mummification process and the music and song with perfect. The real problem was that there seemed to be zero Indonesian interest the the event. About ten tourists sat watching as about 20 local elders played out the performance. The puppets themselves are carved out of thin sheets of leather. The characters and stories from ancient Hindu tales. The puppet master and musicians sit behind a screen while the shadow of the puppets on the screen tell the story. It's was strange to see a troupe of Muslim entertainers performing a Hindu tale, intensely proud of their rich culture. It's a pity more people don't show up to give them a little more of a living.

The Puppetier working the puppets
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The next day it was a 5am start to head for the highlights in the area. First up was Borobudur, shrouded in fog when it's gates opened at 6am. The seven levels were classes in a Buddhist school, once you completed the first level, you were then worthy to climb to the next level. Each level was fabulously carved with Buddhist tales for the student's instruction. At times I wanted to run away on the terraces. The weekend was a national holiday and it seemed like every school kid on Java was about. Like with the shadow puppets, to see the Muslim kids so proud of their Buddhist history was refreshing. About every third step, another teenager wanted to chat. There was a real rivalry, everyone wanted to get a word in and get a snap with the foreigner.

The deadle Mt Merapi smoking
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We rolled on to Prambanan. Less than a year before, it was badly damaged in an earthquake that killed hundreds in the area. The main temples fenced off to prevent injury. The kids here weren't quite as bad, probably not fancying standing about in the midday sun either.

Sunday is the day to visit the Sultans palace. The traditional dance performance is what all arrive to see. It's said that the Sultans staff don't actually earn any money, but get their accommodation in the palace and are assured that their family will have a bright future. Few would turn down a chance to work for the Sultan. The men and women in traditional clothes, the men with a dagger down the back of their sarong.

Relief carving of the life of Buddha, Borobudur
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Too much to see and too little time. The local volcano Merapi famously erupted the year before covering a village in it's shadow, but unfortunately I didn't make it there. There were no shortage of activities in Jogja, a Mecca for the eternal traveller!