Berwick on Tweed
From Cumbria and Northumbria: A Tale of Two Coasts in Berwick-upon-Tweed, United Kingdom on Jun 24 '08
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We Ignored the shaky weather forecast for today and headed up the coast to Berwick-on-Tweed. We found ourselves a convenient parking spot right next to the town's impressive ramparts and then all head off in different directions.
I started by heading clockwise round the ramparts from Cumberland Bastion. It's amazing how hard the local council has tried to dissuade visitors from venturing here. A long list of potential hazards is prominently displayed - a simple "you're all doomed!" would have done. In fact it was fairly safe provided you didn't get too close to the edge of the ramparts. In fact there is a lovely wide, flat path to follow - so I decided to take my chances.
A long list of potential hazards is prominently displayed - a simple "you're all doomed!" would have done.
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A huge amount of effort has gone into protecting Berwick from English and Scottish forces over the years. The result is an amazing amount of solid defences. It also has the distinction of having the earliest barracks in the country (1717). The locals must have been desperate to be rid of all those solders.
Another unusual building is the strange towerless church I spot from the ramparts; it is only one of two Cromwellian churches to have been built in England. It was built without tower, alter, stained glass or font. Sadly, over the years, all but the tower have been added - what a shame.
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I had been trying to follw the Lowery trial around the town, but had quickly missed a turning and gone off the whole idea. The few information boards I did spot included a plaque about a house he once almost bought! Talk about stretching things. Another featured a rough, very rough, sketch but I couldn't tell what it was supposed to be.
However I finally came across one later that showed this image. Finally I was able to compare his finished painting with the view today and frankly it was pretty close.
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I really enjoyed visiting this lovely town. All along the town walls were attractive houses and homes, with low enough walls to give you a peek into gardens and allotments.
Bird watchers would have a wonderful time here in winter, watching the river mouth for ducks, but for now I have to make do with the huge herd of mute swans that live there.
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