Krum-love

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From Prague I headed to a smaller destination still within the Czech Republic, Cesky Krumlov. i really had no idea what to expect but had heard good things. when i arrived at the hostel i knew i was going to like this place...it was literally  a two-story cabin of sorts in the middle of a quaint, quiet town that really sent me back in the past a few hundred years plus some. one big city after another gets tiresome after awhile...that's not to say the big cities are not interesting and welcoming in their own right...but...you just need to break them up. i've definitely found this along my trip and often end up staying longer than planned in the small towns where you can walk the entire place, see all the sights, try all the "hot spots" with ease and not feel overwhelmed. i love being able to go out at night and know i'll never be more than a 10-15 minute leisurely walk home to my cozy hostel. While in Krumlov i took full advantage of the ability to walk all day long just allowing myself to dissappear in the twisting, turning, cobblestone alleyways and tiny shops, bars, cafes and homes. in another incredible turn of events...there was a vegetarian restuarant in this town!! sitting right on the river i sat outside with a couple of friends and ate some delicious traditional czech food which must always contain something fried and potatoes. a staple is fried cheese. yes...i had the same reaction when i first heard those two words uttered together...especially when i knew this would make up the main part of my dish...but...it is amazing! and for dessert...blueberry dumplings with yogurt and honey, which really was an entire meal in itself. sooo good. as you may have guessed i happily returned to this restuarant. the town has an incredible castle dating back to the 14th century and has one of only two original baroque theatres left in europe. i mean...if i had a palace i think i'd ask for an attached theatre.  knew i had to take the tour...no question...i was not dissappointed...it was incredible! i walked in and my jaw dropped...i had only seen this in a texbook before! only lit by candles i could hardly make out the stage until my eyes adjusted. and everything in there was original...we sat on the benches (the audience seating) while listening to the guide. it was eerily fascinating. we also got to go below the stage to look at the mechanics they used for changing the scenery facades...so cool. wish i could have taken pictures for ya! the grounds of the castle were beautiful as was the view from the top of the hill it sits on looking down into the town center.

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the town sits in the middle of rolling green hills and a winding river. there were opportunities to go rafting, horsebackriding, mountain biking etc. i was all up to do all of these of course but it rained a couple of days which made me think twice. a group of kids decided to test the weather conditions and go rafting...i though...ahh what the heck...could be fun...so i suit up with the most waterproof outfit i could find without sacrificing some sort of warmth (which means bathing suit and a beanie...basically). i walked half way there, saw the looming dark clouds and my mind started battling itself...rational decision or risky adventure? then it started raining...a very cold rain...and i thought...what am i doing! anyway...decided to make it a readin' relaxin' day. those kids came back literally frozen...hahaha. sooo glad i didn't go.

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unfortunately the word has gotten out about the awesomeness that is cesky krumlov and many tourists descend upon the town by busload every day. but if you avoid them, the place is still well worth it. i actually ended up staying longer than expected and had the pleasure of experiencing the towns cultural festival happening that weekend. it was great! everyday i'd go into town and feast on many a greazy treat. potato pancakes, cabbage pancakes (so much better than it sounds!) and this dessert roll thing that is just incredible...and all accompanied by czech folk music and one day there were children dancing in traditional costumes! haha  some of the music was great though...i have some new stuff to check out online when i get home for sure. rockin out in krumlov, eatin local food, drinkin local wine...can't get any better. so glad i decided to stay.  and another good reason i decided to stay...horsebackriding! since i missed the rafting i decided to get out of the center of town the next day.

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i need to start a new paragraph for this one...oh yes. even the walk up to the ranch was well worth it. but let me tell you...do not tell a czech person you know how to horsebackride unless you really know how to horseback ride...hahaha. ohhh man. so the lady says "you've ridden before yes?...we trot and canter??" and i say "oh well...i have but it's been awhile ya know...uh...ya...i don't think..." and we're off! grab a helmet, hop on...here we go. once i got up on my horse and i realize how much i don't remember...let me tell you it's not quite like riding a bike kids. and this horse surely feels my anxiety and lack of confidence. struggling just to keep my balance i realize this is going to be interesting, especially considering it's me and two "guides" who work the ranch and are probably happy to have someone who "knows how to ride" so they can do more than walk the trails for an hour. after 10 minutes we hit an open field and she turns around and says "ok...we trot" then just takes off...my horse of course follows and i am literally bopping all over the place...again the realization of "hoooly crap..i do not know what i'm doing!" i start reciting the "just don't die" song. and THEN...my horse decides it wants to go faster! i am clinging on for dear life at this point. there is really no attempt at technique...i'm just clinging to the horse. mind you i'm behind the guides so they have no idea whats going on...not that it would make much of a difference as i discovered. i go flying by them yelling "wooh.wooooh" but of course the horse doesn't know english! finally i stop and  go "what just happened!!" she says "oh...that was canter...you just stand when that happens, ya?" ohhh jeez. right...just stand...of course!! so easy when you put it that way. didn't she see my heart pounding out of my chest and the look of terror on my face??! apparently not. i quickly state again "it's been a really long time"...her response: "oh...it doesn't matter". we continue to walk along and again... the next open field she turns and says...ok...this time we'll trot, and then canter. i wanted to scream out..."wait...that's what just almost killed me!" but we're off again. it actually was a blast...you really feel like you're flying. i was half in a state of euphoria, half in a state of panic. all rational thought is gone...at this point my only focus is staying on the horse...i'm sure it was comical. i just love that at home i took lessons and it wasn't until about the 3rd or 4th lesson that we did any cantering...and that was in a ring, fully supervised. here...we just went! haha...guess it's the better way to learn...just throw you right into it. and i did manage to stay on...even later when my horse got spooked and took off faster than i've ever gone. it was an interesting ride. but beautiful.  hahaha. when my face wasn't frozen in a concentrated panic i was marvelling at the countryside, which was quite nice.