Paradise Found

Looking out to the only neighboring overwater house from the Black Pearl porch, with luminous blue water. So peaceful here, even the neighbor was away.
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In the mourning saw the unbelievable overdevelopment around us. The cool huts we were in were crammed into a slot of land about as wide as our stamped out development at home, and every inch was crammed with hotels of water taxis or restaurants or broken down houses. We were about 100 yards from the high end Intercontinental hotel with it’s $800/night over water bungalows. And though it was a nice setup, they were crammed in like everyone else. Though it was still nice. Went for a swim in the warm ocean before having a shower. Saw a huge ray in the sandy shallows, and a couple large dead porcupine fish washed up on the beach. Rains came and went. Got our rental car and drove to the other side of the island for our long anticipated condo over the water – the Black Pearl. And it didn’t disappoint! This really changed all the negatives of our French Polynesia experience. It was much cooler, and the house had an air conditioner, though we didn’t use it. No crowds or crowded environment, very quite, not cramped, no bugs, facilities that worked and were extensive. The place didn’t smell like pee (like the grass hut, and I have heard blogs from folks at the $800 a night places say the same), and was very clean and spacious. A traditional grass roof, huge vaulted ceiling (could have had a 2^nd story) with long curved roof beams. A larger bedroom than at home, and 3X bathroom. A large deck with big new BBQ, and steps into the water below, with a shower outside to rinse off. This place was ideal!

The other side of the island had too much packed in, and this northern side appeared to retain some of what it must have been like here 30 years ago. Cheryl saw an upside down American flag on the drive over, and some French folks at the pension said “I’m sorry” when we said we were from California. But the folks here have been so so welcoming, helpful and kind, esp compared to our experience in the Marquesas. The caretaker of the condo Isabella was awesome - energetic and thoughtful explaining every detail of the accommodations and surroundings. Most folks spoke at least a little English, and seemed to want to try to communicate. Prices still high, but not as astronomical as we had anticipated (still $5 beers here, not the $20 cokes we were warned of).

Paradise Found

We went to the grocery store and stocked up on items for our week long stay here. And fed the colorful fish below the house some bread when we returned. We made some fruit drinks with the blender, and enjoyed snorkeling around the base of the condo. I saw at least 8 diff species from the patio above, and once below, saw twice that. Many of my tropical favorites - Moorish idols, Picasso triggerfish, flute fish, parrot fish, some very large hermit crabs, even some small giant clams. I had heard all the coral was bleached here, but glad to see some live heads below the condo.

I hear this is the only over the water house you can rent in Bora Bora (the others are just little hotel rooms packed in with other rentals), and that Jack Nicholson once owned the place. We felt we finally had somewhere comfortable to stay in FP, and so glad we were going to be here a week! Made some fresh raw tuna in coconut milk and lime for lunch, and mascarpone cheese with caviar on crackers! More rain and lightning in the afternoon, and evening, a nice sunset, and took some time exposures of the cool lightning flashes across the lagoon. Ahhh, paradise at last!