Off to the Palio - Siena Italy

30 June We had breakfast, packed, went out to do a couple of errands and were able to store our luggage at the hotel while we grabbed some lunch. By 2 p.m., we had our car returned to us from the off-site parking lot and we were on our way to Siena.

We drove by Piazzale Michelangelo again so that Gary could redo the panarama as the sky was now clearer. We drove down A1 to Siena and drove into the old city through the Porto San Marco to our hotel, the Palazzio Ravizza. After check-in, we settled into room# 43 which is on the top floor and actually considered a "loft" room. We have a nice view which includes the church and bell tower next door for the Pantera (Panther) Contrada. Every area/neighborhood/Contrada has it's own church and flag which hang from the buildings within the Contrada's boundary. Every hour the bells of the bell tower ring.

Il Palio: Men in Tights

Around six o'clock, we walked down to the Campo de Siena ( like a square but shaped more like an abalone shell) as we had read that the third ( of six) trial race would be held at 7p.m.

By 6:30, the horses and people from each Contrada started their parades into the campo with singing and chanting following their horse. After all ten Contrade that are competing in the July 2nd Palio have entered into the campo & paraded, the police secured the track as they followed the people with brooms cleaning the track for the horses. By close to eight, the horses and riders appeared again and tried to line up for the start of the trial race start, which they had some difficulty doing until finally the race began. They ran three laps and were done and I'm not sure who did the best......

There are thousands of people packed into the campo even for the trial races-- it's amazing. (Also the first time they fired the cannon, I really jumped.. :-)

Tonight, we got tickets from our Palio Tour. We will be eating at the Pantera (Panther) Contrada Banquet tomorrow night.

1 July We didn't go to the trial race this morning at nine but after a nice breakfast on the back patio, we watched replays on the TV in one of the sitting rooms. It took even longer this time for the horses to get lined up for the start. After the race started, on the second turn, the rider on the first place horse fell off the horse ( they are riding bareback-- no saddles) and the horse continued and won the race. Apparently, it just matters that the horse completes the race. This Palio race has been a tradition since the 1300's and is truly a part of history.

Gary and I walked slowly down to the campo, stopping to browse in the shops. There were many temptations and we did buy a few ceramic pieces (but we're having them shipped.... :-) We also stopped long enough for me to pick up a Pantera Contrada scarf so I could wear it to the banquet tonight. We stopped at a little restaurant on the campo that was set up on the dirt track to order pizzas for lunch. When we arrived back at our hotel, we noticed they are starting to set up the long tables for the banquet right on the street in front and next to our hotel......

At 4:30, we met up with Stan Douglas, from Palio Tours, ( http://www.paliotours.com/webpage/palio-tour.htm ) and other people that had signed up for the same tour. He introduced us to Francesca, our guide, who was born and raised in Siena. She spoke about the Contrade and about the many emotions that transcend this Palio race tradition. She spoke of arch enemies ( of which each Contrada usually has only one) and of alliances. She also told of agreements made between the Contrade up until the last moment. The prize for the winner of the Palio is a beautiful banner and the pride that goes with being the best.

Francesca took us to one of the Cantrada's church and museum, the chiocciola (the snail), who is one of the seven Contrade not racing this time and one with which her Contrada is friendly. We saw the part of the church where as part of the ritual before the race, each Contrada's horse is led into the church and to a special altar to be blessed. We may attend the blessing of the horse of our Contrada, the Pantera.

We were near the campo as it neared time for the fifth trial race and heard the first cannon blast ( there are always three at each race) but it unfortunately started to rain and we decided to walk back to the hotel. By the time we reached the hotel, it was raining harder and we noticed people trying to cover the Pantera banquet tables with plastic.

Luckily it stopped raining and the sun came out. At 8:45, people gathered to be seated at one of the long tables. Our seat#s were 530 and 531 (only about the halfway mark) and we estimated there were close to 1000 seats. After the rain the tables had been reset with red, blue and white tablecloths, the colors of Pantera. By 9:45, we had our appetizers, by 10:30 our first course pasta, by 11:15 our second course meat and finally at close to midnight, we got our dessert. There were chants and singing and speeches-- wish I knew Italian!!! The captain & the commander of the Contrada spoke as did the jockey. I was informed that the Pantera don't have a great horse this time and they weren't really as excited as they could have been (could've fooled me!!!).

Also during the evening, Stan from Palio Tours, stopped to chat for awhile and as we told him of our experiences this past month, we mentioned being on the Royal Clipper sailing ship. He was eager to ask us questions as he will be joining the ship in Sicily on Tuesday to investigate arranging a charter tour on it that includes a special focus. He is thinking of music festivals or a cooking/wine type tour. Sounds interesting..... :-)

After the evening was over, luckily our hotel was close & we didn't have far to walk.....

2 July Today is the day of the Palio! After breakfast, Gary and I went for a walk all over town. It was getting more crowded as many people are coming from outside the city. This morning at 7:45 there was a mass for the jockeys, celebrated by the Archbishop of Siena in the chapel of the Piazza del Campo. Then at 9a.m. was the 6th and final trial race (Provaccia). We didn't attend either one... :-)

At 10 a.m., the jockeys are officially entrusted with their task to ride for a particular Contrada. At this time, they sign their pledge documents and no changes can be made prior to the final race.

We grabbed some lunch at 1;30 and by the time we finished it was 2:45. We decided to walk over to the Pantera church and many people were heading inside for the blessing of their horse and rider. Gary couldn't resist the chance for a picture and I was just as curious. The Pantera flag wavers and others in the old Pantera costumes and wigs came in first followed by the jockey and the horse, The priest gave a blessing and gave encouragement for a win and the horse left-- we followed and watched men in tights twirl and wave the flags in a great show of pageantry outside the church.

By 4:15, we had arrived at the campo to get in our grandstand seats but they weren't quite ready yet. They are a very tight squeeze and once you are in, you stay in until the Palio is over around eight....... ( but we were certainly in a better position than those in the center of the track, once it's closed they can't leave until after the race!)

At 5p.m. the grand pageantry of the historical procession started. Each of the ten Contrade involved in today's race has their own drummer, two standard bearers, two men at arms, then comes their page who caries the arms of the Conrada, then two more pages that carry banners of the military company. (It's always hot during this time each year so I feel for the poor guys in the chain Maille or the full armor) then lastly comes the show horse whose rider is the jockey and then the actual horse who will run the Palio. All ten Contrade do this with stops for flag waving demonstrations-- then the seven who are not in the Palio come next, of course, without horses. It is a very long and slow procession, I'm sure made that way to increase expectation. Next come six horses carrying masked riders representing six old Contrade absorbed in others and finally comes the Carroccio, a large Middle-Ages inspired cart pulled by large oxen and carrying the Pallium, the silk banner which is what the Palio is named for, the coveted prize for the winning Contrada-- the procession started around 5p.m. and ended at 7:45 at which time the horses and riders finally came out to line up for the race.

This takes a long time as there are only two ropes as a starting gate and nothing to separate the horses. Finally, they set off the Verrochio, the devise that starts the race. The race is only three laps and, of course, the riders are riding bareback. On the second turn, one horse went down and caused two others to falter also, thereby causing three riders to fall off. Later, during the race I counted four riderless horses. The Pantera Contrada was not expected to do well and, in fact, started way back in the pack.

Acquila Contrada (Pantera's arch rival) led most of the race but during this short race, Pantera was able to catch up and actually won by half a length.

There was great jubilation & excitement (including me of the hoarse voice from screaming so much). This has been a fantastic once in a lifetime experience.....

Later after we were back at the hotel, we heard drums and chanting so we looked out as many of the Pantera Contrada carried their prize, the banner, to visit the church. I waved my Pantera scarf out the window......