Ethiopia - Gondar

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It's 19th July 1998 here, which makes Becs a fantastic 223 aqnd Chris 21 - a little confusing that we are here together as strictly speaking we haven't actually met yet! Although the sun is at its highest point it is only 6 o'clock. We are hoping that time is actually different here and this is not some malaria-tablet-induced trip.

Although we have spotted no hobbits here in Gondar, we have acquired a personal Gollum. The little git follows us around al day everyday, spinning us some yarn about needing a book for schol. On our first day here Becs made the error of saying instead of giving him the money for the book she would buy it for him. Since then he has followed our every move and even has spies out locating us. He dresses all in denim, has a Bart Simpson hair cut and a dodgy eye.

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He seems to be the filter for all ainformation in this town as literally everyone seems to know which hotel we are staying in, where we are from, what are plans are. There is a loud speaker which sounds through the town each morning and night and we feel that it could actually be a Faranji-fone, operated by his truly. Ordinary Ethiopians in the town can benefit from its cries of, "they're just finishing breakfast now . . . OK, brushing their teeth . . . red alert, they're coming into town and could be open to buying something at an extortionate rate." And bang, we're swamped in a Faranji frenzy as soon as we hit the open air.

Chris is actually in this photo if you can spot him
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Escaping this madness briefly we managed a trip to the 16th century royal enclouse, only to enter into a more benign sort of madness. As evern in Ethiopia there is always some out to make a bit of extra money and we were approached by a furtive lookaing security guard offering to take us into the closed off main tower at sunset. Sure enough, we made our way to the renezvous point at 5.30 (or 11.30 Ethiopian clock) and waited for him. Every now and again you could see him skipping between the ruins trying not to give the game away.

After much loitering around the tower waitin for other toursits to disappear he let us in.. Becs, rational as ever, was concerned thaqt he was going to lock us in for the night with the ghosts but at 90 years old we thought we could overpower him.

It was slow going getting up to the highest point, not becuase it was a grueling climb but becuase the guard kept having to train us in the art of hide and seek. Every move was made on all fours, which seemed to rahter defeat the purpose of climbing the tower - good views! Finally we got to a point hwhere anyone on the ground could not see us, demostrated by our trausty guard, who literally jauamped and leapt in the airt to show us it was safe. Finally we had a view other than stone walls!

The brewery for Dashen Beer is located nearby and we have been sinking a few whenever we can - our main priority being, of course, supporting the local economy.

Desperate to escape Gollum and his Faranji-fone, we are off into the Simen mountains trekking for 5 days.