ICIPE then off to Uganda!!

Silkworm larvae...expected to be a new environmentally-friendly income generating tactic for Kenya
see all photos »

Wewe unafundisha kiswahili tafadhali? Means can you please teach me swahili. I am definitely trying to remember this phrase as i think it will be a great way to interact and get to know people who i just met. I love the simplicity of this language as there are no complex conjugation rules or exceptions. Spelling is entirely phonetic, unlike English which is brutally tricky to learn. Conjugation of verbs requires a simple combination of a pronoun, a tense-indicatior (three letter sequence of letters) and the verb form. As a spoken language it is incredibly lyrical and almost sounds like the people who speak it are singing. I am trying to gradually incorporate it more and more as i interact with local people, even when i know they speak english fluently, firstly for the selfish purpose of trying to learn the language, but also as a sign of respect...or at least i hope it comes across that way.

MMMMMMMMMM Nothing like locusts...they're apparently quite good when roasted
see all photos »

        You may remember me mention that we were being hosted by ICIPE, a research community committed to promoting sustainable development in the four sectors of human, animal, plant, and environmental health through the study of insects. For example, they breed mosquitoes that could carry the malaria parasite, and the tse tse fly which transmits sleeping sickness so that their and scientists all over the world can preform experiments on them. Their approach is a holistic one, attempting to combine vector control methods, transmission prevention tactics, and trying to find a cure for these elusive and perpetually mutating diseases. They also breed animal and plant pests, trying to find the best ways to eradicate/diminish them without affecting the local ecosystems. They do this through a variety of natural strategies found by studying these insects in labs and the wild, finding plants that release chemicals that drive them away and introducing larger numbers of predators for these insects.  These approaches are difficult to implement within rural agricultural communities due to their slow implementation and effect and the fact that it wont eradicate the problem entirely, only diminish it significantly. This policy of universal benefits for human economic needs and evironmental health is a commendable objective and for this and their altruistic policies of educating farmers and not imposing patent protections on their discoveries to provide as much acess to them as possible has attracted many notable scientists from around the world. The projects that fascinated me the most were the ones where ICIPE scientists found ways to encourage rural communities to preserve endangered resources by finding economic incentives for these people to live symbiotically, rather than parasitically with their surroundings, especially Kenya's declining forests. For this they found local breeds of silkworms who relied on indigenous trees to survive (acacia and mulberry.) The harvesting and processing of the silk makes it more lucrative for these communities to keep and start planting these trees rather than cut them for firewood. This has positive spillover effects as well. The mulberry tree bark can be removed without harming the tree and turned into baskets, while the flowers of these trees are used by local bees, who in turn make honey, which can also be harvested. Wax and medicinal ingredients can also be extracted. Everything within this system can be recycled or used. The fecal matter from the catepillars is nutrient rich and can be used as animal fodder or fertilizer for fields. The pupae collected from the cocoons have cosmetic and medicinal uses as well. ICIPE plans to educate the farming communities not only in the cultivation processes, but eventually manufacturing, creating more jobs!

This policy of universal benefits for human economic needs and evironmental health is a commendable objective and for this and their altruistic policies of educating farmers and not imposing patent protections on their discoveries to provide as much acess to them as possible has attracted many notable scientists from around the world.

A plant that can be converted into a tea to cure hangovers? This thing would make MILLIONS!!!
see all photos »

       But not is all perfect in this paradise (it IS perpetually sunny and 25 degrees with a cool breeze.)  Upon speaking to some of the workers who cater to our every need (a couple beers at night allows them to sit, relax, and talk a bit) i found out that despite its progressive ideals, its hiring policies are still a reflection of the overall worker treatment for Kenyans in general. These few people are required to be up before any of us in the morning, stay here all day in case we need something, and cannot go to bed until the last one of us is asleep at night, which is often making them go several days without sleep. I also found out that they are forced to take regular blood tests and if they were ever to test positive for HIV, they would be fired and would not be able to find a job in the formal sector ever again as all formal sector employers preform these tests. I found out from some Kenyan university students that aside from government jobs, there is very little opportunity for educated people to find adequate work. Only 30% of University graduates actually find jobs upon graduation, so students are placed under unimaginable amounts of pressure and competition. the high unemployment rate forces many to settle for jobs for which they are overqualified and that their education (over 12 of lost income) has no relevance. As a result there is actually a high suicide rate amongst the educated population. Those who do find jobs in the government often become corrupt, knowing that they could be replaced at any moment, thus they try to create their fortunes while they can.

see all photos »

        The discrepancies in existing in wealth are staggering. The other day we were brought to the Village market, a mall in the diplomatic sector. It was surrounded by a wall and barbed wired fences. Guards carrying machine guns in plain sight were more frequent than the overly white customers. Just accross the street i saw something incredible and disgusting, a series of mansions with immaculately manicured and lush green lawns surrounded by a wall with GUARD TOWERS. Not even ten feet from the wall on the other side was a shack made of corrugated metal surrounded by parched dirt. The wealthy were running their sprinklers indiscriminately while there is a DROUGHT in this country and the people not ten feet from their homes had no acess to running water. I shot a quick photo before anyone saw, but other students who tried to do the same were harassed by the machine-gun carrying guards. I will try to post this when i get the chance.

I almost got my camera confiscated for this photo...i guess people don't want the reality of the Nairobi diplomatic sector to be revealed.
see all photos »

        On a lighter note, we are leaving for Uganda tomorrow morning (4 am!!) where i will begin my course in primatology. So last night we sort of had an informal party to relax after a long week. Over the course of the night i cut my finger while opening beer bottles. Apparently it bled through the bandaid last night and got on my bug netting. My roommate who is extremely neurotic (but a GREAT guy) saw the blood this morning and freaked out. He ran out of the room and came back a few minutes later with the group doctor, who was apprently in the middle of examining someone who was actually not feeling well because Julian started saying "my roommate is bleeding to death!!!" Lets just say he has dramatic flair eh? So Dr. John comes into my room where im passed out on my bed in my boxers and wakes me up asking me whats wrong. I sorta grumbled incoherently and turned to look at his concerned expression and i burst out laughing and i explained that i only had a cut on my finger (which happend to be on the knuckle which makes it hard for it to heal.) Rumour had spread that i was seriously injured so when i finally did get up everyone started coming up to me wondering what had happened. I dont think i will hear the end of it now that they've found out that it was a mild cut gotten from opening beer bottles. Great rep to start the trip eh? Craziest, loudest, most eccentric, and now klutziest of the group! I love the people i am with here and i am looking forward to knowing them oh-too-well in the next few weeks.

I will not have the chance to update this journal for another 2-3 weeks as im headed for a place where we will be getting our electricity out of generators! Wish me luck in Kibale National park! Hope i dont get malaria, run into forest elephants (which are apparently very aggressive, or get attacked by a troop of baboons. :) I will try to name as many of my new found primate friends after you guys! (based on personality similarities of course!) Take care!!

Amani my friends

PS It would be nice to get some news from home...ya know...see if people are alive? If anyone cares to share information on the Habs it would be greatly appreciated!!