Diksmuide (Trench of Death)

Poppies for peace
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There is one last stop today and I cannot say it is something I was looking forward to. We drive along a canal to one of the most brutal and bitterly defended trenches of WWI. In fact although we refer to it as a trench, it was actually built above ground. We are currently standing on the low reclaimed ground of the Flemish Polders, approximately 1.5 meters below sea level. Had they tried to build trenches, they would have become flooded canals. So instead they built the trenches up with sandbags and earth. Today the original sandbags have been replaced by ones filled with cement, but the earthworks and original concrete structures are untouched.

Poppies in the trenches
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We climb into the trenches and follow them up towards the front line and no man’s land. I am surprised by this, I had expected the trenches to run parallel with each other, not heading towards each other at single point. However the landscape of today looks very different to that of the First World War. In a desperate attempt to prevent German forces reaching the Belgian ports, the Belgian’s took the decision to flood the Polder’s. All that was left was this think spit of land. Remarkably the Belgian’s managed to defend this small patch of land for three and a half years. However the cost was extremely high, hence it is known today as the Trench of Death.

At the very end was a concrete blockhouse that we had to crawl through ... known as the mouse trap.

Front line marker
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There are actually two trenches running parallel to each other. The main one is broken up in a zigzag pattern. This ensured that an enemy shell landing in part of a trench was contained, causing fewer casualties. The second trench ran in a straight line alongside it. It was used to move munitions quickly to the front. Every so often there was a small connecting trench between the two.

At the very end was a concrete blockhouse that we had to crawl through. This was known as the mouse trap. Every so often the Belgian’s would pull back, luring the German’s into their trench. They would follow them into the trap where iron doors were slammed shut and two Belgian snipers could simply pick them off through a couple of holes.

WWII Trenches
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From the end of the trench we could look over towards a German pillbox. The distance between the two was probably 50ft. Sadly the pillbox hadn’t been restored and was overgrown and neglected. This is a terrible shame, because it demonstrates the width of no-man’s land. You suddenly realise how close the two sides were. They would have been able to call across to each other with very little difficulty.

Also at the end of the trench was a small pink granite obelisk, topped by a sculpted Belgian helmet. It is one of a series of stones that mark the Western Front. We have seen a few today from the car but this is the first one we have seen close up. The Belgian helmet on top indicates that this part of the front line was defended by Belgian forces. Others can be found with French and English helmets on top. Those that remain today are protected. Sadly some were destroyed or defaced during the Second World War by the invading German’s.

At the end of our visit, just as we get back to the car, I hear a strangely familiar sound. I was trying to place it when a large flock of birds lifted up off of the surrounding farmland. Suddenly I realise what they are … lapwings. They are one of my favourite birds. Not only do they look beautiful but they have a very distinctive flight and make an unmistakable sound.

It has been an enjoyable and memorable day. But it has also been extremely draining too. I feel shattered but also feel I have done something truly worthwhile.

Another day and another meal. I’m beginning to run out of options and still can’t bring myself to go for the Flemish option (chicory wrapped in bacon and baked in a cheese sauce). So I go for a really brilliant meatloaf in a tomato sauce. How lucky was I to find the best place to eat in Bruges!