A weekend in Prague
From Off to Europe in Prague, Czech Republic on Mar 23 '07
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A weekend in Europe, and where to go? Prague just seemed right.
Starting with an early morning train from Rotterdam to Schipol, I made it to Prague via Hamburg by 11:30 Saturday morning. I took a taxi from the airport to the Renaissance Marriott in downtown Prague, but at 650 CR I would much more recommend taking the Cedez to Namesti Republicky for 120 CR (about 6$ CAD!). From there, you can take the Metro to just about anywhere (a 24-hour pass from the airport costs 80 CR). It was a bit crazy getting across a bridge into the city, as there was a marathon underway, along some serious football fans lining up at the stadium for the Czech- Germany qualifying game later that evening!
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After dropping off my bags and getting oriented, I started walking. As I was right by the Namesti Republicky, the first site I stumbled on was the Powder Tower and the Opera house. Incredible architecture, but the best was still yet to come. After wandering alongside the tower, I ended up in Vaclavske Namesti, where an open Easter market was underway. The smell of roasting sausages almost drove this part-time vegetarian to partake, but I resisted only to find a wonderful Czech treat of a cylinder of dough baked with fresh cinnamon and suger - ahhh heaven! And the shopping - enough puppets, fine crystal and Russian dolls to tempt at incredible prices! I loaded up, dropped my purchases back at the hotel, and headed off into the street once again.
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This time, I headed under the Powder Tower and ended up on an enchanting side street of cobblestones, shops, small hotels and restaurants - and WAY TOO MANY tourists! The streets were packed. I made my way through the crowds, stopping every few feet to take pictures of the awesome architecture. This street opened up into the famous Staromestske Namesti. I stopped in my tracks, overwhelmed by the magnificance of what I was seeing... 14th century churches, statues, markets, whole pigs roasting over open grills, towers. I haven't been this awe-struck by architecture since my first steps into Piazzo San Marco in Venice! It was like a fairy-land come to life.
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After walking (and shopping) through the square, I headed out to the Jewish district of Josefov. Being the Sabbath, all was closed, but I planned to head back Sunday.
From here, I crossed the Manesuv Most (bridge) and got my first glimpse of the Karluv (Charles) Most and the Prague Castle in Mala Strana. I knew it was best to take the tram up to the castle, but I decided to walk all the way up instead (and felt if the next day!). On the way, I saw the end result of a man who was run over and trapped underneath a streetcar bus - it took 6 men to remove him, and thankfully, he was all in one piece!
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The climb (101 steps) to Prague Castle and Royal Palace was well worth the effort. It was about 5:30pm, and most of the tourists had thinned out. A 14th century gothic castle, complete with gargoyles and a dungeon. I also wandered into the Golden Lane, where Franz Kafka once lived (#22).
After a rest and a cappuccino overlooking Mala Strana, I headed down the hill into this section of old-town. Saw a few small hotels that would be wonderful to stay in next time, then treated myself to dinner and drinks. Around 7:30pm, I wandered across the Karluv Most and made my way slowly back to the hotel. A long soak (the cobblestone street really work your feet and calves), then off to sleep.
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Sunday, I started early (7:30am after jumping the clocks ahead) and headed back through the square to Karluv Most. On the way, they were changing the time on the Astronomical Clock - had to be done by removing the hands and physically repositioning them! And NO TOURISTS!!!! A perfect time to head out!
I grabbed a cappuccino and made my way slowly across the Karluv Most, taking in the beauty of the ancient statues that line this bridge. Many people were praying by their saints, kissing their hands then placing them on their saint's name-plaques.
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After some sweets for breakfast in Mala Strana, I wandered around the back streets until I crossed the bridge again and headed to Josefov. There, I bought a pass to enter many of the historical Jewish sites in Prague. Such history, dating back from the 13th century, with a magnificant gothic-style synagogue and one of the oldest preserved Jewish cemetaries in Europe. This area became known as the Jewish Ghetto, and the most moving exhibit is to be seen in the Jewish Ceremonial hall, where more than 80,000 names of those lost in the Holocaust. Up the winding staircase of this building holds pictures drawn by children in the Ghetto, and later, from the concentration camps. I was moved to tears.
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A last wander through the back streets (now very familiar), and I headed back to enjoy my last moments at a cafe outside, enjoying the warm spring sunshine along with my coffee and croissant. Alas, back to the airport at 11:30, then "home" to Rotterdam.
I saw so much in this short time - well worth the trip. I know I will return at least 2 more times to Prague - once in the summertime, and once in the winter. Highly recommended stopping point in Europe ... Ciao.
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