Train to Tangier

Train to Tangier – It seems most of my good stories are from the train – is that normal?? Is that the “experience” I came to find?? I don’t know – but here goes it:

I’m on the early train to Tangier; decided 2nd class was better bang for my buck.  I find an empty car – thinking maybe, just maybe I’ll get lucky… The car is set up to accommodate 8 people crammed or 4 people pretty spaciously, with armrests separating 2 seats per side.  No such luck, 3 young, 21-25 yr old Moroccan guys with so much hair gel and cologne that my nose was in full spasm, decide to share my car.  Two of them sit on the opposite side and one guy sits on my same side.  I put the armrest down as a “please respect my space” signal.  The guys on the opposite side get comfortable by laying on each other – I swear it was a sight to witness.  One guy lays his head on the others guys crotch and they both scootch into their space as one.  My guy puts his head on the headrest and lies as best he can in ½ the space of my side.  Leaving me with my ½.  It really was fine as they slept for the first 2 hours.  3 stops later everyone is up with the glaring sun beating down on our car and 2, 70year old veiled women enter our car making their own room.  None of the guys jump up to help these old women with their large heavy baggage, so I do, yet I struggle with putting their bags overhead.  Only after I was having trouble, did one of the guys make a move to be helpful.  I shouldn’t have been, but I was shocked.  A bit later it occurred to me that the guys were telling some story (in Arabic) that was undoubltly not anything a 70-year-old grandmother would appreciate being subjected to.  But so it goes that respect for the elderly, and of course any kind of women is non-existent.

So back to the two guys sleeping on top of each other, it was quite interesting to witness.  It wasn’t sexual yet quite intimate.  This past week, I’ve seen most all men hold hands, walk with each other arm in arm and kiss checks repeatedly, nothing that any hetero guy I know would ever think about doing… It’s actually kind of refreshing yet I couldn’t stop giggling on the train thinking about Steve and his guy friends and how they will leave a seat between them at the movie theatre, and this guy had his head on the others guys wee wee.

So come to find out that in order to go to Tangier you change trains ½ way there.  Good to know – glad I was informed on time.

So at the station to change trains, it was the most unbelievable thing… Everyone who is getting off to change is pushing and shoving (not speaking) but almost violently pushing and cutting in line and stammering to get off first.  Not sure why, cause the other train wasn’t even there yet.  I was actually a bit afraid cause with the weight I’m carrying I’m easily tipped over and a few times was shoved so hard that I lost my balance.  So then we are all waiting like cattle to board the next train.  It arrives and again but 10 times worse they were throwing elbows and totally ignoring anyone in front of them.  Everyone did it.  I started laughing and just let everyone go ahead, they did anyway but I didn’t want to be a part of the violence.  It was pretty terrible.  But then I understood, as there were barely any seats when I got on and I had to sit with the “common folk” in the center of the train – no compartment car, just out with everyone.  It was pretty uncomfortable, warm, and with screaming crying babies everywhere.

This boy, maybe 12 or 13 sits across from me, sweet as can be.  He desperately wants me to understand French.  He shows me everything from his pockets hoping to make a connection.  Soccer players on his book bag, an English word in his wallet and then he counts in English for me, It’s so sweet and genuine and I feel like such an ass for not knowing any French and coming to a country and make little if no attempt to learn and communicate.  Shame on me.  He asks for my email and he gives me his.  He gets off a bit later and stands on the platform waiting to see me and waves goodbye.  My heart wanted to take him home with me.