A Magic Island : Ko Phangan

Depart from Ko Samui, on our way to Ko Phangan.
see all photos »

An island with heart, with no worries, and with endless beauty.  During my stay in Thailand, I visited this island twice and often dreamt of Thammasat relocating here.  Backpackers and other tourists, including exchange students, all agree that this is one of the better islands.  (Diving enthusiasts would argue otherwise).  Ko Phangan is still free from larger corporate dwellings and thus is still a huge attraction for the average backpacker.  It's also an attractive force for those daredevil and dangerous types: trying new experiences is part of the draw of this island.  It's sort of the, what happens in Ko Phangan stays in Ko Phangan.  But, that doesn't mean you have to do anything stupid, such as one of the island's primary plagues: multiple types of illegal drugs.  The stories of tourists dragged off to the local mental hospital after batting at things in the air not really there is often told.  Although I didn't participate in this, you get the feeling quickly that some do.  The Thai police are trying hard to crack down, but, it still seems like a "we can pay you off" type atmosphere.

View from our mountain bungalow.
see all photos »

On my first venture to the island, we had just missed August's Full Moon Party.  Each month's full moon is celebrated in style on Hat Rin Beach from the moment of sunset all the way to sunrise and beyond.  (There is an afterparty during the day after the full moon night).  This is a mixture of local Thais and farang dancing to many different beats.  The openness is what surprised me the most.  Everyone and anyone was dancing with each other.  If you're new to these kinds of parties, I found out quickly that you may want to test the water first and then dive full in.  Despite the modern party of farang and throbbing music, I could not help but marvel at an underlying force:  the fact we were celebrating the full moon.  Even though some would argue it was now just an excuse to "get drunk" or "make out" with random people (practicing everything safe), I found a deeper historical meaning to it all: the tradition the moon has always played in human life and the tradition in Thai life.  Even though it seems to be commercialized in Ko Phangan, with Black Moon and Half-Moon parties an excuse to party as well, I think it meant more to some of the local Thais I spoke with and it meant more to me, even if I was winding to the pulsating music too.  It was a release, a send back to our primal beings.  Just because disco and rap weren't part of the vocabulary of long ago, other forms of music and celebration were likely a part of the celebration.  On my second outing to the island, the moon's importance was intensified as it was on the Thai holiday of Loi Kratong.  The moon's significance is ubitiqous.  You can read more about this in my individual blog on Loi Kratong.

It was a release, a send back to our primal beings.

Our bungalows looking from one of the ports of the island.
see all photos »

A must visit in the town is a small, hallway-like place known as Magic Water.  The name itself portends something a little less than legal.  But, you'll find that's not the case at all.  Inside, Nam, the woman who owns the place, became great friends with myself and the others with me.  Laying on mats while drinking some of the best smoothies, alcoholic or non-alcoholic, is a good way to pass away a lazy afternoon talking and playing cards.  Nam also keeps a close tab on her patrons.  Along one wall is numerous photos of herself with her customers over time, and a fund to travel to Europe.  There are no pretentious moments here.  I visited her in August and when I returned again in November for the year's biggest full moon party, she remembered me like it was yesterday.  Like the island itself, you immediately felt a sense of home and belonging.

Another view from around our bungalows.
see all photos »

Culturally, Ko Phangan showcases the Thai mai pen rai attitude to the extreme.  Bangkok Thais even discuss the island with an awe of how laid back it is, in the context of their own laid back attitudes.  They were often jealous of the exchange students ability to take time off and visit the island often and readily jumped at the opportunity to join the trip.  It is important, and they note this as well, to stay away from the ills of the island: the variety of dangerous drugs and risky sex.  Even if we are back in the primal forces of nature, we still found out quickly to exercise caution and rationality.  Not that there's anything wrong with that.

One of the roads I visited on my motorcycle.
see all photos »

On my second outing to the island, for the year's biggest full moon party, we rented motorcycles.  This was both a good and bad thing.  Several of my friends had minor accidents on the windy, sandy roads. The multiple warnings from the wonderful advice of Lonely Planet to locals didn't stop us.  I enjoyed my experience, though.  With a motorcyle, I was able to zoom to the top of the island's largest mountain peak to see the area around.  I was also able to motor through the paths of the jungle, significantly cooler than the lower mainland, to view the center-of-the-island's waterfalls.  As I said, though, this did not come without both health and monetary risks.  One friend of mine scraped her foot to the point of raw meat, two others had to pay exorbitant fees to "fix scratches" on the motorbike itself.  The local pharmacies were helpful in the health area.  Not only did they provide cheap bandages and other equipment, they applied it for you.  My other friends still don't like to talk about the monetary risks, though.  Thai's are friendly and smile, but sometimes, they are quick to get as much money back from their rents as possible.  The fees were near 14,000 bath for one case:  (hundreds of dollars).

Leaving Ko Phangan
see all photos »

Because I don't want this blog to end with a litany of preachy tidbits of safety advice, I say that Ko Phangan feels like one of those places that you can come back years later and feel like no time has passed.  When we boarded our massive ship to leave the island back to Surat Thani, you weren't sad.  Instead, as I said in August and came true in November, you will come back.