The Rest of New Zealand

Gary gets the Angel Room
see all photos »

Another Day, Another Island

• New Zealand consists of two major islands of approximately the same size. One island to the north and one to the south. The island to the north they call the North Island. The one to the south they call. (wait for it) the South Island.

• The tip of South America is closer to Antartica than New Zealand.

• Saying in New Zealand: Where there’s a wool, there’s a way.

Not my vintage
see all photos »

We’re up early in the morning in order to catch the ferry in Wellington Harbour to the South Island. Even though it’s a car ferry you have to turn in your rental car on the North Island before boarding, then claim another one on the South Island to continue your rental. (Could be the cost of the crossing which is around $160 Cdn. each way. We were also told that insurance rating was much lower on the South Island and the cars may be restricted.) In any case we have to get it done before boarding the 8:45 AM ferry. This particular ferry takes about three hours to cross. And a great ferry it is. Lots of comfortable sitting. Three different distinct eating / drinking areas and lots of outside viewing area. This comes in handy to view yet another series of outstanding views as the ferry threads its way through smaller islands leaving Wellington and again when arriving in Picton. After we pick up the rental car we have a 20 minute drive to our new home. Blenheim (Pop 25,900) smack dab in the heart of Marlborough country. (The wine, not the cigarettes.) Marlborough is the most prolific winegrowing area in New Zealand with over 50 vineyards in the area, most of them within a 15 minute drive of Blenheim. Wine from grapes grown in Marlborough is the most exported around the world including Canada.

Daily cocktails at (Fyffe County Lodge
see all photos »

We check in to the Hotel D’Urville, a “boutique” hotel in downtown Blenheim. This 11 room hotel was formerly a trust document storage office and some of the rooms are part of the former vaults. Every room is different and is decorated to a theme. The Hills win this particular race and get the Angel room (see picture) while we’re left with the African room. The hotel, owned by a Chef from London, is also home to one of the better dining rooms in the area.

Blenheim is an odd little town. Not one straight street in the city. Tiny commercial centres all over the place although very walkable. The town is mostly for the use of it’s citizens rather than the tourist trade as we learned when we tried to buy lunch after 1:00 on Saturday (couldn’t do it) or get a coffee before 8:00 on Sunday morning. (nope). Ate dinner in the hotel that night at great expense.

Flipper and friends
see all photos »

Next day is an all day walking wine tasting tour. Around 10:30 the four of us were dropped off with three other souls, in the fields of the Seresin vineyard. (Two of the three with us were women from Toronto. What are the odds?) For the rest of the day we walked among and between five different vineyards, stopping at four of them for wine tastings and one for lunch. Outstanding day but by the last of the wine tastings, interest and palates had waned. Only yours truly had the determination to see it through to the end in the interests of acquiring knowledge. In addition to Seresin Estates we visited Grove Mill, Highfield Estates, Dog Pointe and one other (A trivia note on Seresin Estates owned by a cinematographer Michael(?) Seresin. He made his fortune in film work with Lord of the Rings, Life of David Gale, Angeles Ashes and Harry Potter.) That night one cold beer (no wine thanks) and a light café meal and we’re done.

Boil Up!
see all photos »

I had also heard a lot about Cloudy Bay in the Marlborough region. Gary raved about it incessantly and I’d hear that it was superior to all the rest. I finally found it (picture attached) but I’ll confess I didn’t see much difference from any of the others. I’d just as soon stay away from it as long as I have the choice.

Next day is R&R. Jill day-trips to Nelson, reputed to be another of the nicest places in New Zealand. (She reports that it could well be.) I go for a 35 km bike ride in the morning and then join Gary for a game of golf in the afternoon. Claire does …..pretty much nothing, and enjoys every minute of it. Topped off with another Thai meal after being turned away by several first choices. Places to go next day.

Staying in shape on the Road
see all photos »

The two hour drive south to Kaikoura is yet another breathtaking one, with the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Kaikoura mountain range on the other. Kaikoura (pop. 3,850) is basically known for (along with its surfing) its whale population. Formerly a whaling community, now a whale watching community. More later.

Check into the Fyffe County Inn. A six room Inn overlooking gardens and mountain ranges. We win the check-in race. After claiming the best room we spend an hour talking to our most hospitable hosts, comparing Canada to New Zealand. Claire and I then kick around town while Gary & Jill do some tramping. (Injuries were sustained but no lives lost.) The attractive Mediterranean style dining room at the inn has a great reputation but they’re expecting a bus tour for dinner. We opt for a downtown choice, the Green Dolphin, where, we pretty much agree, we enjoued the best meal of the trip. (Separate review to come) We pass on the $75 dollar a meal crayfish (looks like a cross between a lobster and a giant shrimp) for which the area is famous but find some excellent (and affordable) alternatives.

Being Punted
see all photos »

Next day is special. We’re booked on a whale watch expedition. Claire and I just about pass on it. Seems like a lot of time and effort for a couple of Maritimers to go out and maybe, maybe see another big fish. (I know, I know. But I still call it a fish) Gary, as an Albertan constantly trying to hone his game, opts for the local golf course. Claire and I decide to see it through and after a delightful breakfast at the lodge, report to our post at 10:00. What follows was a once in a life time experience.

Only 9,431 Kms to go before changing planes.
see all photos »

We are told by the crew that if we fail to spot a whale we’ll receive 80% of our money back, (my fingers become crossed) but that they are confidant that we’ll spot one. Well, within 20 minutes we’re taking pictures of a sperm whale rolling, spouting and diving. Mission accomplished. However, with two hours to go we have to do something. They find a second, then a third. This is getting routine. After the third sighting session, the crew learn of another phenomenon going on and proceed to a different area. The passengers are invited up on deck to an outstanding image. Around us swimming, diving, and playing is a herd(?) of well over 100 dolphins. For the next 20 minutes they cavorted around and under the ship. The crew even found a copy of Louis Armstrong singing It’s a Wonderful World to put on the loudspeaker for us to listen to as we watched. It was so astounding that some of the group, including Jill, forgot to take pictures.

Getting ready for next leg.
see all photos »

But it gets better. The crew heard about still another event going on and off we go. We approach three or four dark areas on the ocean surface. As we get closer we learn that these are tight groups of perhaps thousands of fish in a feeding frenzy, called boil-ups, named as such because the activity makes the water look like it’s boiling up. Even the crew was excited as this is apparently quite unusual to capture. After watching this for 15 minutes or so our time is up and we head back to shore. We meet Gary and exchange our miraculous experiences. We see three whales, a hundred dolphins and a rare boil-up. Gary shot an 82. We’re even.

Highfield Estate in Marlborough (lunch!)
see all photos »

That afternoon we head to Christchurch (pop. 331,400), our last stop (for Claire and I) on our southern trek. Check into the Crowne Plaza Hotel, go to the fine Portofino for pizza (it must be Friday somewhere) and hit the sack.

Originally planned and settled by the Church of England, Christchurch has as many English characteristics as New Zealand ones. Churches, parks and place names are all reminiscent of England. Gary and Jill do some sight seeing. Claire and I do the laundry. We’re tired and have to prepare for the next portion of our trip. We did manage to get out in the afternoon to do a short walking tour and a little window shopping. The extent of our tourist commitment was to be punted (gondolaized) up the Avon River and to have a cold beer in the oldest pub at the150 year old English pub, next to the hotel.

We had our closing dinner that night where we said goodbye to our good friends Gary and Jill. They will be staying on for another week or so, going to Queenstown and the Southern Alps. We’d love to continue as well but we have a flight the next day to Auckland for our final preparations for the Asian leg of our journey.

Footnotes: The next day we spent an hour or so at The Antarctica attraction, located adjacent to the Christchurch airport while waiting for our plane to Auckland. Enjoyable. We pass on the opportunity to go into the cold room which seemed to consist almost entirely of standing in a cold room with the wind blowing. Way too Canada-like. In Auckland we stay at the Jet Inn, another boutique hotel at the airport. (Note to Gary. We must have checked in first. We got two TVs) Light dinner in hotel and an early night.

Overall? Loved every bit of New Zealand. Would go back in a heart beat. Could definitely live there. If you ever get the chance to go….go.

Pros:

Affordable: All in all I think the cost of being there (if you don’t have to buy real estate) is similar to that in Canada.

Friendly down to earth honest people: As Jill asked “Did you hear one New Zealander say no to anything asked of them?”

Casual lifestyle. Very civilized but absolutely no stuffiness.

Dining / drinking: Casual yet quality. Diverse. Availability of choices. Affordable.

Access to nature: Visuals are outstanding. Ocean, mountains, lakes and forests with almost every recreational pursuit imaginable is available.

Cons:

They’re too far away. (Maybe it’s us that’s too far away)

(Special note to any golfing readers. We weren’t impressed; but with some qualifications. First we didn’t golf much. Second we didn’t work very hard at seeking out quality courses. My uninformed impression is this. If you want the high-end quality, well groomed, country club golf experience you either won’t find it or it is very expensive. If you don’t mind your golf a little rough around the edges (sorry) there’s lot’s of it. If you are looking for inexpensive natural uncrowded golf you’ll be very happy. Just be prepared to “roll ‘em” and once in a while wait for the sheep to get out of the way.)

WHAT I LEARNED TODAY

New Zealand has a cyclical problem with immigration. In 2005 they had a net immigration gain of 7,000 people. Not many for a population of 4,100,000 people. Like Canada they wrestle with an immigration policy that addresses this problem yet meets their skills needs and ethnic ambitions. Most of the emigrants by far go to Australia, followed by Britain. Third and fourth with almost equal numbers are the USA and Canada. The list of countries responsible for immigration after Britain and Australia are China, Japan and India. Not many Canucks coming in.

What I learned today is that New Zealand faces challenges around its immigration policy to ensure an adequate population base to sustain its lifestyle yet to avoid being overwhelmed by entirely different cultures.

QUESTION OF THE DAY

At the Antarctica Expedition we learned that New Zealand which is 1,375 kms away from Antarctica represents the South Pacific for the responsibility to ensure sustainability and exploration there. This is true even though the tip of South America is closer at 975 kms.. Probably makes sense that New Zealand takes responsibility rather than South America for historical, political and other reasons. But it raises a weather question.

We realize that New Zealand has seasons opposite to ours and that it can get cold, snow and so on in our summer. Somehow, though we intuitively think of South America as exclusively warm. Yet it’s closer to Antarctica than New Zealand. The question is: “Does South America have a similar climate as New Zealand’s and therefore a bit like ours? If not why not?

--------------------------------------------

(Footnote to footnote. This has been posted from Viet Nam with some difficulty. If you ever hear from us again it wil be from the next country.)