Tiny Diving Paradise

Main Highway on Bunaken
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In Indonesia

Well I got to Indonesia in one piece. I was interested by the fact that customs was cleared at the airport before I actually got my backpack (that was checked onto the plane). They went to the trouble of x-raying the bag that I had on the plane (at least there was someone asleep at the screen), but didn't seem to care about the bigger baggage. Outside I was greeted with the local public transport that they have in the local cities. In the Philippines they had the jeepney, in Indonesia they have the microlet. Little blue vans that they pack people into, driven by chain smoking kids. Routes seem random. Trying to find out where one was going was a bit of a mixed bag. Three microlets later though I was in the center of Manado. A lot more civilised than I expected, it actually had the appearance of a normal place! The night was spent there before heading to Bunaken Island.

A 5m hammerhead shark is not something you see every day

Main Street, Bunaken Town
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Off to Bunaken

The tiny island off the coast is famous for having some of the world's premier dive sites. I was worried about the weather in Manado on my arrival: rain and more rain, so I didn't intend to stay too long in the area. I booked a flight to take me to the south of the island four days later (crossing the dodgy areas that only the bravest wander through). When I got to the island though I found out that even though it's 20km from Manado, it effectively has a different climate. Close to the equator anything is possible weather wise. I spent 2 1/2 days there and had the most perfect weather throughout. Transport was via the local 'public boat' that leaves for the island every afternoon. Full of locals bringing back the basic supplies that are a luxury on the island.

'Taking' a Quick Lunch
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Even though it's one of the world's premier dive spots, I had arrived before the start of the holiday season, which coincides with the European holiday season. My accommodation was to myself, just me and the family that run the bungalows located just off the beach. Beautiful people. Next door was the dive center where I arranged my exploration. Only myself and Johe my dive guide diving off our boat. A couple of other boats sighted in the area, but not another diver in sight in the water.

Locals Hanging Out
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The diving itself was a real treat. First up was a night dive. A special one at any time to see what goes on underwater after dark. Not too many sleeping fish spotted, but lots of shrimp, lobster and crabs wandering for their evening meals. The highlight was finding a sleeping sea turtle. Once the spotlight came on he took off into the depths.

The next morning was reserved for two more dives. They didn't disappoint. Both dives were exploring along coral walls, dropping almost straight into the depths. The first dive brought two beautiful sea turtles just a few meters away. The second held a couple of rarer treats. Sighting a 5m hammerhead shark is not something that happens every day, and at 20m it's very rare. Johe has been diving the area for 6 years and it was his second time to see one. The regulator nearly fell out of his mouth! It was difficult convincing the others when we got back that we had actually spotted him. The area is famous for the pygmy sea horse. We found one of his relatives, about 10mm tall, grazing on a sea fern. It was incredible to be able to see such a tiny creature chewing on its host. The walls themselves were a fantastic sight to dive along.  Mostly soft corals in full colour like a well kept garden.

Exhausted in Bunaken
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The island itself has about 500 residents scattered around. The main street in Bunaken town is a few houses thrown together along a cement path. No roads on the island, it's navigated via a path that runs from one end to the other. At the sight of the camera everyone wanted 'portrait'. Some kids ran away on their mums suggestion that they got their photo taken. Most of the mums weren't so shy!

My visit to the island was more of a success than I ever could have imagined. Perfect weather, great diving and peace and quiet in abundance were a lot more than I expected. So good that I may even come back??