Not Surfing in Paradise

Surfers at Playa Hermosa
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When I was here the first time, I visited the "surfer's paradise" of Jaco. I found it quite ugly and not so appealing, but I heard that Playa Hermosa (about 10 miles south) is the true secret surfer paradise. I decided to stop by and see what I missed four years ago. It is true. Playa Hermosa is a beautiful tropical paradise with a black sand beach (unexpected) that looks more like sand dunes than the typical flat beach we all imagine. The sloping nature of it provides for unbelievable swells, so there is no wonder experienced surfers rave about this place!

Dan-O
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Unlike Jaco it is not teeming with tourists or commercial businesses. There are plenty of accommodations, a couple of restaurants, one internet cafe, and a store. Beautifully landscaped and quiet, I have stumbled upon a small corner of heaven. I quickly set out to find the cheapest accommodation available. Unfortunately, I did not discover Rancho Grande until my second night. At only $15 per night, it is a beautiful and clean hostel with a welcoming owner (Brian) and son duo. Add a prime location only steps from the beach and a comfortable group of friends- all surfers of course- and wah lah, maybe I will never leave.

I quickly realized I was the only young female staying at Cabinas Rancho Grande, but the cool surfer dudes were very accommodating. Most of the conversation was about the day's or the week's surf, which left me out in the cold most of the time. But one thing I have learned on this long journey is patience and a better ability to listen and learn from others. I would love to learn to surf, but this is not the place for a beginner. One of the guys graciously offered to take me out to a nearby beginner's beach, but my schedule will not allow it at the moment. I am on a mission to hurry on to Nicaragua, because of my lack of fundage (money).

Another new found friend by the name of Dan-O is an excellent surfer. I sat on the beach and watched he and the guys tear it up on what must have been the largest waves I have seen this year! He is an American who is also on his way to Nicaragua. He invited me to travel with him on the deluxe bus direct from the outskirts of Jaco to Rivas (inland across the border), Nicaragua. My original plan was to take the local bus to Liberia, change to the border, and on to Rivas. My goal is to land on the island of Ometepe. He is trying to catch the best surf in a little out-of-the-way town on the coast. Although my way will definitely be cheaper, I decided to take the opportunity for company.