Madge goes to Laos

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Remember waking up on Sunday morning during college and going into town to mingle with the 'townies' over breakfast? That's what Vientienne feels like. This is one sleepy town full of odd 20-something hairstyles (god, I AM getting old) and t-shirts announcing recent travel destinations like badges of honor.

It's hard to believe that this place is a national capital. Everyone -- locals and fanang (foreigners) alike -- moves at a snail's pace. The only exception is the sporadic infusion of Western-style retail and service outlets. Someone has come in and told shop owners how much Madge with the 'See unusual cultures and furnish the ranch house' tour group will pay for silk products. ($20 for a pillowcase!!! Are you kidding, they sell these in Vietnam for $2). There are also the westerners who have come in to set up tours for trust fund backpackers. ('Dude, the white water rafting through the native's fishing grounds is AWESOME! It's only $50 a day per person and those local kiddos really appreciate any pens or candy that you can give them.') However, most of Vientienne has not been consulted on the fine art of catering to Western tastes ($.06 museum entrance, 'No chili salt on my pineapple please.' 'Is that a fried chicken FOOT?'). Ridicule is only credible if it is also turned on oneself, so I'll admit, we have indulged in our share of waffles and happy hour-funded movies while here. God help me, I need a break from chicken feet occassionally.

Love-Tera and Jim