Cook Islands, Polynesia

COOK ISLANDS (NEW ZEALAND), POLYNESIA

The Cooks are a group of Islands just 1.45 hours flying time south west of Tahiti. The islands themselves consist of a southern and northern group and come under the duresdiction of New Zealand.

The population of these beautiful Islands is made up mostly of Marea. Like Tahiti I have arrived during the wet season. I guess you cant get it right all they way around. And here the wet season has finally caught up with me. I arrived on the 29th December to be greeted by grey skies which replaced the warm sun of Tahiti, not exactly what I had in mind.

The largest and main Island of the Cooks is Rarotonga. There are a further 9 Islands including Rarotonga that make up the southern group. I have 15 days, so its feasible to visit another Island to get a feel for them. But like French Polynesia its not as cheap as one might hope.

Rarotonga has a population of 8100 and covers an area of 67.2 squ km. its capital is Avarua which is the seat of power in the Cooks.

Arrival here is friendly warm and relaxed with a musician playing in the arrivals hall, I am met by Paul from Rarotonga Backpackers at the airport, as always the Kiwi's make you very welcome. Its just a short distance from the airport to the backpackers which is only four months old and right on the beach, (complete with swimming pool). GREAT LOCATION !!. And theirs a friendly crowd here too, which is definitely welcome after the quite of Tahiti.

So there are numerous nationalities including a MAD American guy, who's completely nuts but good for a laugh. My introduction to this hostel is a game of waterpolo with teams of 2 people either end of the pool with the cleaning net handle being used as a net, I lost count of the number of times we had to get out and retrieve the ball, but it was lots of fun and a good way of getting to know people quickly.

Like all Polynesia its very much outdoor living, and you DO NOT wear footwear in the house at any time, tee shirts and shorts are definately the order of the day.

I shall be here to see in 2006, and theirs a party organised as well. So after a couple of days relaxing I decided to have a go at the cross Island trek on New Years eve, 3-4 hours, that sounds fine, or so I thought. The guide book gives a pretty good route plan, plus I had a map and compass, not much help though. The first section to the needle up well trodden paths is easy enough and gives great views out over dense mountains and jungle to the north and south coasts. But here things start to go pear shaped as paths become indistinct and not well waymarked. What should have been straightforward turned into a 7 hour epic scrambling along jungle clad ridges to the south coast. I arrived back at the hostel at 6.45 very wet, tired (not to metion hungary) and battered but satisfied that I had got across. In future when it recommends a guide I will take note. Pauls BBQ and some beers where very welcome by this time let me assure you.

So a quick shower and its off out to see in the New Year. Carina who helps Paul out takes 16 of us to town to various bars, its strange to be in such a warm place for New Year, so different from last year at Torres de Payne in Patagonia. I WILL be back home for New Year in 2006 which will be great too.

After visiting numerous bars we see in 2006 at a beech side place which not surprisingly is packed. But unlike the UK as soon as midnight has come and gone, everything shuts and people simply disappear. no `Old Lang Siegn' here I am afraid to say. But the party continues back at the hostel into the wee hours, and we have a few wee drinks, the place looks like a bomb has gone off the next morning. but its was great fun, and Paul did us proud with the BBQ. and lots of people fell in the pool too. Have you ever tried water polo drunk, uuum, interesting !!!.

I have spent several afternoons snorkeling here too, much larger fish as well, but the trigger fish still bite just the same.

Travel here is easy unlike Tahiti, a bus passes the hostal at half past the hour, there are busesd clockwise and anti-clockwise from Avarua.  The bus drivers know everyone and you get a trip round the Island for 6 dollars, I think I have been round 3 times so far on the way back from town.

After some research with Island Hoppers in town I booked a trip to Aitutaki Atol which is a 45 minute flight with air Rarotonga and is one of the nearest of the southern group Islands to here. To costly to visit any of the other islands unfortunately.

Aitutaki Atol is described and recognised as one of the most beautiful Islands in the Pacific.An it certainly lived up to the hype. The island has a population of 1800 and covers some 18.3 sq klm. Its lagoon is some 12 by 15 klms with a number of smaller Atols (small Islands) along the outer edge of the reef. This makes this hooked shaped lagoon one of the top destinations in the Cooks.

Unlike Rarotonga this Island is low and without mountains and often much sunnier as a result and with pristine white sandy beaches (if I am lucky !!).

AITUTAKI,  3.1.06 to 10.1.06

After an excellent New Year I arrived on Aitutaki at its little airport after the 45 minute flight from Rarotonga on a small prop plane which takes 35 people (I counted the seats so think this is right).

I am lucky on the flight as the planes has to fly along the lagoon and I am treated to a spectacular view and the camera goes into overdrive until the card is full.

I was met by Willie who does the drop offs and pick ups (its so small you get to know people after a few days). He takes me to Paradise Cove where I have booked 5 nights. Its lovely complete with sandy beach and swimming in the lagoon.

I decided upon recommendations to book a lagoon tour for a day, which upon advice of a Swedish couple I book for the Wednesday as its going to be a very sunny day and more rain after that.

For once the weather is on my side and its a beautiful morning. Aitutaki Adventures pick me up at 9.30 and whisk me off to the dock to join the small cat which takes about 15 people. As you head out into this lagoon words cannot explain the incredible BEAUTY of the crystal clear waters that are all shades of blue and aqua marine. Its really is just like the books, absolutely STUNNING.

We are taken out toward wedding Island as it is called, jus a few palms and a large sandy beach. quite a location for a marriage.

The boat stops in idyllic waters with reefs all round so we can snorkel, its amazing. You have to use good sun block and wear a tee shirt or else you get burnt very quickly. So after about an hour of snorkeling I walk through the shallows to the Island and wait for the boat, its about half a mile through the shallow lagoon and takes twenty minutes to get their. The boat meets me on the other side of the Island, the sand is so hot you cant walk on it for long. From here we went on to `One Foot' Island for a lovely lunch, as much as you could eat. and then more snorkeling before going to the Island where the BBC series `Ship Wreck' or `Castaway' was filmed. All the sets are still here, they only finished filming in December.

This is the most stunning day so far, and I have been so lucky with the weather as well. I arrived back at about 4pm after a very memorable day.

Its friendly here with lots of people staying at Paradise Cove and I met up with a Mathiaus and Chrissi from Munich who I have spent much time with since. I also joined up with an OZ couple and some Swedish.

No buses here so for 25 bucks a day I rented a scooter like everyone else. It took a little while to get used to riding it, but after a couple of days I was fine and we road round the Island in scooter gangs which was great fun.

Several evenings where spent on the beech in the warm air gazing up at the stars and having a berr at midnight. And everyone appeared to whatch the sunsets and take pictures, this became a daily richual after a while. Much beer was consumed and we went to one of the Island nights and traditional floor show at Puffies bar and another evening at the Spider Crusher bar. (I put these in because I like the names.)

Its a lovely place to stay for a week, so relaxed, everyone waves to you as they pass on their scooters. and they get to know you too, so its almost a home from home,(well not quite, but you know what I mean) especially when you get to know a group of people. On our last night we went to the Garden Cafe for dinner, a truly wonderful experience. Run by an American lady and her husband who is just the most amazing character. He's 70 and happens to be a famous spear fisherman we found out later, and has travelled all over the Pacific doing this. Now they have this small cafe in there garden and make very special dinners for 10 people only at  a time and they come and talk to you and make feel so at home. This is one memory I will carry with me for a long time. In fact I enjoyed it so much I stayed another night t Paradise Cove !!.

So know I am back at Rarotonga Backpackers and Chrissie and Mathaius are here which is nice. A couple of days to relax before flying to New Zealand on Friday to begin the next leg of my journey. The hostel here is good and well run, complete with black dog who lives next door (sometimes!!), and a kitten who followed someone home last week. He has now been adopted and much loved by all. I bought some food for him yesterday which he loves. The cleaning lady is going to look after him as she has cats of her own. So a happy ending to 2 weeks in a great place.