Reaching for that little piece of stardust - the tour of Los Angeles

La Brea Tar Pits. Shame I didnt have longer
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We reached the high hedged walls of Jack Nicholsons enormous house. The door was a little ajar - so the crazy Australian put his foot on the accelerator and tried to speed in.

We all screamed in excitement but the gate was too quick for us and all he did was prang his front fendor. He quickly slammed us into reverse (to more screams) then shot off into the traffic before security picked him up.

Georgios of Beverley Hills which was very upmarket boutique containing dresses not less then $1000. The owner was a friend of Ronald Reagan and Madonna

John Paul Getty museum
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What a day! Easily one of the best days of the trip. We've done a budget tour of Los Angeles. We've been from Malibu to Sunset Boulevard, from Griffith Park to 'Skid Row' from West Hollywood to Beverley Hills. I've seen places today I have only seen in the movies. I have seen the little bit of glitter which this city is famous for, I've also seen the grinding poverty that this city is famous for. But I like Los Angeles. Its endlessly unpredicatable. Without doubt, one of the most fascinating places in America.

Grummans Chinese Theatre
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I was in a minibus with Brendan and a couple of others I met last night at the free party. We crammed into a minibus and sped up into the Hollywood hills on Mulholland Drive. Our first stop was a viewing park where Los Angeles was spread below us at nine in the morning.The skyscrapers of Century City were in its centre and there were fantastic views of the famous Hollywood sign. I am pinching myself that I am actually here.

Then it was downhill to Hollywood boulevard where we parked near Manns Chinese Theatre where the stars names are embedded in the sidewalk. The extravagant Chinese/Polynesian movie theatre had hands/feet embedded in concrete  and I found Humphrey Bogarts and Marilyn Monroes. 'The Bodyguard' premiered here last night. Just north of here is Beverley Hills where huge mansions are hiden on windy roads with very tall fences. Goldie Hawns was pointed out to us and is perched on a cliff overlooking a canyon. I also remember the Mexican gardners trudging up to work.

Next stop was Rodeo Drive with its designer shops and boutiques with staggering affluence every couple of yards. We parked ourselves in Georgios of Beverley Hills which was very upmarket boutique containing dresses not less then $1000. The owner was a friend of Ronald Reagan and Madonna whose portraits adorned the walls. Outside here is my overriding memory of Rodeo Drive - a little girl clutching her mums hand wearing sparkling cowboy boots.

La Brea Tar Pits was a get out/take picture/get back in stop and I really wish we had more time. Then we drove northwest to Malibu, stopped off for a pay-by-weight salad and ate in on the famous beach. And there, ladies and gentleman, did I get my first glimpse of the Pacific ocean. Something I had waited months to see.

Then the John Paul Getty Museum. The Musuem has 10 million to spend on art treasure a year and is designed like a Roman villa in Herculaneum. There is a lovely peristyle garden with fountain and pools. Myself and a French couple were dazzled by the Renoirs, Poussins and Van Goghs on display but the Australian contingent wernt impressed and wanted to go back to the beach.

After Venice Beach it was getting late. We headed back to Century City and drove through areas that were burnt down earlier in the year. They also showed us 'skid row' in the twilight and we let out gasps of horror. There were rows of homeless people stretching for five blocks. You could see them make drug deals in the shadows.

Then finally as night fell up to Griffith Park Observatory way up in the mountains.Lit up at night the city was a spectacular grid stretching away into the horizon.