Good Karma

with my Icelandic friends steni and hini on Thanksgiving on a rickshaw
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My blog has been a little neglected. I've had some trouble uploading pictures but will try to get some up in a few days and as far as the written part most of my internet time was spent getting updated on things at home. But here's another entry and I'll try to keep up a little better in the next couple weeks, although my schedule for Vietnam is looking pretty manic.

Before I got to Hanoi I had to leave Kathmandu which is easier said than done. I had asked for a wake up knock at 5:45, it came at 6:00. Luckily my stomach had hurt the night before and I was up anyway. When I went downstairs at 6:02 my taxi wasn't there and neither were any workers. This was a problem because no taxis would be out to just hail. A worker showed up about a minute later and thought I needed the taxi at 6:15, which was strange because I had them repeat back the arrangement we had made the night before.  He started making calls but no one was answering. Finally he got a taxi for me and I checked in an hour and forty-five minutes early. It wasn't a problem, but I was sweating a little anyway. There weren't any signs for gates or for Royal Nepal Airlines so I went to where everyone else was herded. I wasn't positive it was right, but then again there didn't appear anywhere else to go.

sunset from Nagarkot, Nepal
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When we got on the plane we had to first pass through double doors, only one was opened, but the glass in the other one was broken so everyone on that side just stepped through the empty frame. Then we queued up to load up on a bus that took us about 200 ft. After two loads the airline people came the conclusion that the people in line had made, it was faster to walk. Once in line I got the first taste of what was going to become a trend of lines for the next 72 hours. For anyone who didn't appear Western, the line served as more of an obstacle to be overcome my sneaking in open spots in the line.

the moon rising over the Himalayas
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I got into Bangkok and had about 30 hours between my flights so I hung out there for a day. It was enough time to realize I wanted to come back longer. Besides my towel which was stolen in Hungary, I suffered my second loss of the trip, my ATM card. I think I left it in a machine, so for now I'm counting on cash advances on my credit card.

The trip from Bangkok to Hanoi was uneventful, which is a good thing, besides I had enough to navigate once into Hanoi. I arrived at 8:00 pm. Arriving in the day is much more desirable but what could I do. I was touted by several taxi drivers, but wanted the airport shuttle bus to get to the Old Quarter, this would save a bunch of money. A guy who was "trying to help me" arranged a SUV to give me a ride, grabbed my bag and was going to put it in telling me it would be the same price as the bus. (Not likely). So after sternly explaining I wanted the bus he went away. A little while later a bus arrived and I had my second major line experience. I just was not ready for the pushing and shoving that accompanied what started as a regular line. It was really a strange situation to be in the middle of.

and the sunrise over the Himalayas
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Once on the bus I started to think of my next step, get a taxi, but then I realized I didn't know when to get out and unlike Bangkok or Kathmandu there weren't numerous English speakers around. I gave the address I was looking for to the conductor (ticket taker) and hoped he'd let me know when it was time to get out (assuming I was even on the right bus). Well I was, but when I got out I still had to get a taxi. This is when a Vietnamese woman decided she was going to help me. So we went across the street, she went into a internet/phone shop, called a taxi for me and sent me on my way.  She was my hero, I must have accumulated some good karma.

Vietnam is quickly becoming one of my favorite countries so far. I just spent three days at Ha Long Bay, the first night sleeping on a junk and will leave on a night train in two hours to go trekking in Sapa for four days. While this is all very exciting, nothing beats the adventure of crossing the street. It's like reverse frogger. Instead of avoiding the cars and motorbikes (there are just herds of motorbikes) the strategy is to walk across the street slowly and in a straight line making eye contact with the motorists. The system is they swerve to avoid you. I am getting used to it quickly and no longer say to myself while crossing "don't hit me, don't hit me, don't hit me."

I have also become fairly adept with chopsticks. It was an ugly proposition in the beginning, but when there were no other alternatives I guess it forced me to be patient and now I can get through a meal alright.

More about Ha Long Bay and Sapa in the next update, maybe in four days. I'll work on the pictures as well.

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David if you read this thanks for tracking me down/leaving the note. My email is n_ugoretz@hotmail.com  Drop me a line anytime.