El Tajín

The Pyramid of the Niches at El Tajín.
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The net curtains on our bedroom window ensured an early wake up, and we headed out on a local bus to El Tajín, which dates from the Classic period (300 - 900 AD). When we visited it was free on a Sunday...just 35 pesos for your video.

(Please note: the rules regarding free entry to sites in Mexico has changed from 2008 - now it is only Mexican Nationals and anyone who has permanent residency in Mexico who can benefit from the "free on Sunday" rule. All other foreigners have to pay.

The voladores hurl themselves off a platform...

A Volador (flyer)
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The most interesting building on the site is the Pyramid of the Niches, a 6-tiered structure, with a total of 365 niches on the 4 sides of the pyramid, one for every day of the year. It´s not clear what the niches were used for, but some believe that it was for placing offerings in for every day of the year.

You need to allow at least 5 hours to see the fairly extensive site and the small museum. You are not allowed to climb any of the pyramids. Towards the back of the site there is a small hill from where you can get a good overall view of the main structures on the site.

Folk Dancing in Zócalo, Papantla
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With temperatures in the high 20´s, we were carrying 3 l of water which initially was heavy, but did not last long in the heat.

Voladores (flyers) perform outside the site approx every hour. The Spaniards thought it was a sport rather than a pagan rite. It involves 5 men, a leader who plays a pipe and drum and the 4 performers. Each man represents one of the 4 cardinal points and Heaven. The all climb a tall pole  to a small platform at the top. The Leader sits in the middle playing, while the other 4 tie themselves to ropes and then hurl themselves off the platform. On the way down they make 13 revolutions each, symbolising the 52 year cycle of the Aztec calendar. A really fascinating and colourful spectacle, this can also be seen outside the Cathedral in Papantla, where the pole is a lot taller. Some of the best views of this can be had from the terrace of the hacienda restaurant, while drinking refreshments. It also offers a great view of the main square.

All the Voladores
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The local bus back to Papantla was driven by someone who must have thought he was Lewis Hamilton: taking corners at high speed it felt like we were only on two wheels. Note to selves: don´t have lunch immediately before setting foot on a Chicken bus!

Back in Papantla, we enjoyed watching traditional folk dancing in the main square, which was followed by a procession carrying the Virgin to the Cathedral.

The entertainment continued later in the evening, with what we were told was "local folk dancing", but ended up being  groups of young people performing salsa, marengue, jive, jitterbug, and modern freestyle dancing.

Dave & Barbara overlooking El Tajín from the hill
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A nice way to end our stay in Papantla.

Although we are now only four days into our 6 weeks, we feel like we have been here a lot longer.

We´re heading south on the bus to Veracruz tomorrow.