Initial Homecoming

The hill above my house
see all photos »

The flight was short, and I marveled out the window at how stunning Iceland is. When we arrived in Akureyri, we flew right down the fjord between the mountains. It was absolutely stunning, the city on one side, and the sloping, bowl-shaped valley on both sides of the water with occasional waterfalls bringing freshly melted snow down to the ocean. We landed on a thin strip of land, out in the middle of the fjord, just before the water ends. I was pleasantly surprised when my contact recognized me right away as I was waiting for my luggage and shouted out my name. We chatted for a couple minutes while I waited and he mentioned that he was the one exchange student that the international office was telling me about, who came to stay at my University in Alaska 3 years ago.

Akureyri, across the fjord
see all photos »

We loaded my stuff in the car and drove alongside the fjord to downtown Akureyri. The first building he pointed out was “the most important building in Akureyri,” the local government liquor store. The only place in Iceland you can buy liquor is through these liquor stores and the bars. It's a bit cheaper at the stores, but still rather expensive. Then we drove to one of the main University buildings, up on a hill overlooking the fjord. It was a stunning view. Almost everywhere you go in Akureyri, you have this amazing view of the water and the hills and the snow on the top of the mountains. It was a whirlwind tour of the school and town and then we were heading to the Guest house with all my luggage and packages and I had about 5 minutes to drop off my stuff, chat with the landlords about laundry, rent, etc. and then we were heading out the door again and he was dropping me off at a restaurant downtown. My University group was meeting there, and he said I should get to know them. He also mentioned several other University activities in the next couple days, saying I should not miss them.

Akureyri, across the fjord at night
see all photos »

So, after he dropped me off, I gathered up my courage, quelled my desire to run, and I boldly walked into the restaurant. And immediately ran into the bathroom. OK, so it wasn't exactly running. After about five minutes, I took a deep breath and walked into the room where a bunch of students appeared to be sitting around a large table, asking them if they were from the University, I sat down in the only open chair against the wall. I was terrified. They were all speaking Icelandic and I had no idea what was going on, I had just arrived in this country and was imagining what I was to do for the next year and how I was going to meet people. So, I sat there for a little while, and then finally gathered up the courage to ask the girl next to me about the school and how the groups worked. It wasn't much in the way of conversation, but it was the only way I knew to break through. After a while, we finished eating our salty pizza and I chatted with a few of the other girls there. Then, they led me to the next event for the night at a local bar/nightclub/cafe. There was free beer there, offered by the University. I met more people who seemed very curious about life in Alaska and if it was similar to Iceland. I told them I had only been there for a couple hours and couldn't really say, but from what I'd read, it was a bit warmer in Iceland. The next favorite conversational topic was Bush, and why were Americans so stupid to have elected him... twice. I had no answer for that.

Icelandic Horses
see all photos »

After several free beers, and having met most of the people from our group, we walked to another bar, where more free beer was offered and where most of the University students from all the groups were meeting together. I was introduced to some of the exchange students, most from Poland, one from China and one from Finland. There were more coming in tomorrow, I was told. One of the Icelandic girls I met that night bought me a shot at the bar and we talked some more before she said she had to drive her drunken friend home and offered me a ride back to the guest house. This was good since all I had was the address and I had no idea how to get back.

Living room
see all photos »

The next day, I had to move my stuff to another, more permanent room downstairs. I had about an hour to get ready and then my contact was picking me up again to head off to another University event in the “forest” above Akureyri. The buses met us at the main University building and before we left, there was a speech about the ringing of the bell that is done every year at the beginning of the school year. I had to ask one of the girls I met the night before to translate for me. We hopped on the buses and climbed up the hill towards our next event. We passed a farm with some beautiful Icelandic horses and into a recreation area. I never really found the trees, but there is an Icelandic saying: If you are lost in the forest in Iceland, just stand up. Most of the trees in Iceland are stunted Tundra trees that barely reach past the height of one's head. When we arrived, we were ushered into a room and given directions, in Icelandic. I had no idea what was going on, and it was obvious that they were giving directions and asking questions. So I asked the girl next to me if she wouldn't mind telling me what was going on. She kind of waved me off and said oh, they are just talking about Akureyri and nothing important. So, I sat there and hoped that I would know when someone wanted me to do something. After a minute or so, one of the girls sitting at the table realized that no one was explaining things to me and that I was getting a little frustrated, so she moved over in front of me and started translating what the speaker was saying. I was so touched by this gesture. As they put us into groups, she led me to hers and I followed her through the events, as she translated each event for me. They were mostly trust and team building things, like walking over a tightrope on a lake, racing paddle boats, using teamwork to get wooden blocks into the center of a rope, without stepping inside the rope. Afterwards there was, yes you guessed it, free beer... and hot dogs. I sat down on the bench and chatted with some of the exchange students, finding out that none of us knew Icelandic and were just as lost as the other.

Kitchen
see all photos »

It was getting a little chilly and I was wondering when we were going home. I said as much to an Icelandic girl that I had just met and she responded, “We leave as soon as the beer is gone.” Soon after, we were told by one of the event coordinators that no one could leave until they had drank at least 2 beers and taken at least 2 more with them on the bus. I reflected later that night, that this trip was a great chance to meet a lot of people from various different backgrounds, even though a bit out of my comfort level.

My Bedroom
see all photos »

Some things I've noticed about Iceland and her people: The hot water smells like sulfur (or rotten eggs). It actually reminds me of Chena hot springs, except it's every time I take a shower or wash the dishes. Nearly all (if not all) of Iceland is geothermally powered/heated. They tap the ground where there are volcanically active areas (not necessarily spewing lava, but still cooling down after sometimes hundreds of years after an eruption) and use the energy from the steam being released. So, the first couple of days, I kept my silver spoon ring on my finger like I always do and I realized after just one shower, it would start to turn black from tarnish. The sulfur reacts to the silver and instantly tarnishes it; a lesson I learned my first time at the hot springs in Alaska. So, as my flat mate recommended, I use toothpaste and a toothbrush to clean it every once in a while when I forget to take it off before my shower.

My House
see all photos »

Never take an Icelander's beer (on the same note, not a good idea to let an Icelander know that you don't like beer either).

Icelanders are wonderful, welcoming people, but there is definitely a hard shell to begin with that you have to crack, especially being a foreigner. You have to gain their trust first, but as many Icelanders have told me, once you crack their shell, you are in forever. The country is changing and it's very difficult for people here, especially the older generation, to accept. The language is starting to change, even though generations of Icelanders have fought to keep it the same for a thousand years, and as more immigrants are entering the country more and more, the culture is starting to change as well.

I've seen a lot of similarities to Alaska and many, many differences as well. Icelanders do not particularly like foreigners, but they tolerate them during the tourist season because it helps the economy. I noticed this at the pools and hot springs when our guide for our field trip mentioned that she hated bathing during the summer with the “dirty tourists,” but sadly, it's true. We are not used to having geothermally heated swimming pools with low chlorine or having to fully shower without your bathing suit and with soap before you even enter the pool. Apparently, a lot of tourists don't notice this custom, nor, do they really observe it. I'll admit, the prudish American in me felt some trepidation at stripping in front of all these people and showering naked before finally donning my swimsuit, but this is the custom, and when you see how beautiful the pools are, you easily understand why this is necessary. At the pool, 2 blocks from my house, all the pools are outdoors. There are 2 large lap pools (heated of course), one attached to a smaller wading pool half inside to get used to the water before going outside, 3 sequentially warmer hot tubs, a large kiddy pool, water fountains, a sauna and 2 water slides. I am told that this is not the best pool in Iceland.

There are many other wonderful things about this country that make it so unique, but so hard to describe, yet I know that I have not made a mistake in my choice of an exchange, and therefore, a life-changing event.