Dust to dust, ashes to ashes.

The Bay of Naples from the west, Vesuvius as always, center frame.
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After promising to visit friends in Naples for nearly two years, the opportunity suddenly presented itself in the form of a weekend's worth of work canceled at the last minute, my partner away at work for the weekend, and the terrible British summer leaving more than just a little to be desired. I was in a foul mood that week anyway, having just realized that I had done nothing for myself in the last few weeks that interested me, and on top of that, lacking the energy to attempt to do things that I did due to what they call "stress and fatigue", two words until that week, I had not been familiar with.

Vesuvius through the Memorial Arches
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Considering my fascination with archeology and and geology, in particular volcanoes and earthquakes, it seemed crazy to me that I had not taken a trip to see one, even though for the last few years I had traveled quite extensively.

a mother clutching her dying child in a feeble attempt to save themselves

I made a quick call to my friends, who were only too thrilled to put me up for a few nights while I explored the area. A quick ticket booked through British Airways, one night later, and before I knew it I was craning my neck out of an Airbus A320 in hope of catching site of the mountain I was determined to meet and greet.

The Pompeii equivalent of a pub, with large holes to hold amphorae of wine.
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Now most people hate Naples. I can also understand in some instances why. English is not widely (or willingly) spoken, there is no law or order whatsoever, and the streets are filthy, more so than I've seen in any city, including those in africa or asia. You drive where and how you want, do what you want, and there is very much a sense of "ever man for himself".  Those are the bad points, and please try to see beyond them for there are many fantastic things to discover. Firstly an area steeped in history, a strong sense of family values, food to die for, attractive people, surprisingly friendly people, and a sense of robustness that permeates through everything, like the very essence of life is strong.

The twisted casts in the Garden of the Fugitives, found at the end of a garden, in a desperate attempt to leave the city.
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Pompeii was my first stop. Arriving early, I found it almost deserted (take advantage, as the hordes arrive enmasse by lunchtime and taking a good photo is harder.)  I cant describe the feeling I had entering the Porta Marina (main gate) and arriving quite suddenly at the ancient Colonnade, massive Vesuvius looming over the city to the west, perfectly framed by the ruined Memorial Arches.  I felt complete, that rare sense you get when traveling that you are seeing something truly spectacular and unique for the first time, and you say to yourself, "this is actually MUCH better than I expected!"

The city is also much larger than how you imagine it to be,  a full day might not even be enough, but as I had 5 hours, I roughly created a walking itinerary, using the free guide book and map included with your entry ticket, taking in all the most important sites. Highly recommended was the Villa of the Mysteries, the area surrounding the open air theaters to the east of the city, the Garden of the Fugitives, which houses the fantastic and unbelievably well preserved shapes of the dying citizens, the large Gladiators Amphitheater, and the various Thermal Baths.  Scattered between these finely preserved buildings are homes, grand Villa's, pubs and whore houses, each with their own story to tell.  The sense you get is of a complete, functioning city, one that you as a modern day person would be happy to live in.  You can look at the water and aqueduct system, admire the ingenious water towers which regulated the flow into the fountains and private homes, marvel at the lavish Villa's with indoor swimming pools and court yard and servant blocks, as well as feel your heart drop at the site of a mother clutching her dying child in a feeble attempt to save themselves from what must have been a lingering and terrifying end to their lives.

Its these complex feelings and "awe around every corner" that will truly leave you wanting more.  I was pretty exhausted when I left, you really have to watch your step on many of the cobbled roads that cross the city, and with with so much to see around you, I think I managed to see two people falling flat, one twisted ankle, and a ridiculous Japanese woman attempting a walk around in 3 inch heels, squealing with every step, a camera in one had, and a parasol in another!

I managed to get some good shots, although, arriving early, or waiting till late afternoon is best, as the light is very strong at midday, and also the crowds of tour groups can take a while to thin out.  The site itself is just a short train ride from the center of Naples.  I was staying in a village just east of the volcano called San Gennaro Di Vesuviana, and was lucky enough to have friends with a car. Accommodation in Naples is not expensive, and its a convenient base, but apart from your excursions, don't anticipate too much from the city itself. There are a few places to get great food and do a bit of shopping, but its not really that sort of place, and I would strongly you take up suggestions from fellow travelers or locals instead of wandering around on your own.

The next day I was going to climb the volcano.  I think its a great idea to see both the volcano and the ruins close together as it really added to the drama and appreciation of it all. Next blog - Vesuvius himself, and Ercolano, the town that time forgot.