Hanoi Ho!

Cloudy Pass
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Fast Facts:

* Vietnam is one of the last (arguably two) major communist powers in the world.

*During the war years between 1965 and 1973, 75% of the population of Hanoi was evacuated and a quarter of its buildings were destroyed.

* They really do eat dogs, although a bit of a specialty. (To be safe we eat nothing in a bun)

Ho Down (Mausoleum)
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Up early next morning to post the last New Zealand blog before getting picked up by our escorts for our 40 km drive to Hue over a mountain pass called Cloudy Pass. Named cloudy because it’s, um, cloudy. At the top of the pass we stop for pictures where we’re accosted by hustlers again. It’s there I’m referred to as Uncle Ho by one of the locals. This will happen several more times. Ho Chi Minh (died 1969) was, of course, the North Vietnamese leader credited with “winning” the war and reuniting Vietnam. He was and still is revered by the masses and affectionately known as Uncle Ho. In a society of clean shaven people, my goatee reminded them of him and thus the nickname. I took this compliment in stride but as I was walking away from one of the vendors and he called me a son of a Ho, I felt truly honoured.

Typical storefront in Vietnam
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We arrive in Hue (pop. 300,000? people, 225,000 motorcycles.) former capital of Vietnam) where we are dropped off at the Club Garden for lunch. Claire eats pho. Then its off to the tour

What We Say Today:

1) Imperial City (500 hectares, 10 kms. Old.) 50,000 people still live there.

2) Boat ride on the Perfume River; so called because of the fragrant smell at the time of it’s naming. I’d suggest they consider renaming it.

Motorcyle under load
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3) Some kind of temple

That night we eat at our hotel, Residence Hue. Dinner is Ho hum.

Next day we have a light day. What We Saw today was limited to a tour of one of the emporer tombs. Hue used to be the capital of Vietnam and was home to much royalty, all of them dead. (now, not then).There are seven tombs. The word tomb is misleading in that it is really a very large park which houses several buildings, in this case a temple of some sort and tombs for the king, the queen, princes etc. (Actually this guy had 104 wives and rumour has it he was getting a little on the side.)

Retail Merchandising
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We also stopped at a small craft area where two or three endeavours going on. One of which was a young women making the cone shaped hats that look a bit like a lamp shade. She can make two a day and they sell for $1.00 each. Many, many people in Vietnam earn a basic wage of around $50.00 per month. Because subsistence levels are $150 in rural areas and $200in urban, most people have to take on part time work such as this in order to survive.

We venture out for lunch on our own before our afternoon flight to Hanoi.

On the road to the airport
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We arrive early evening in Hanoi, now the capital of Vietnam, and as many as 8 million. It’s raining and cool. Check into the Sheraton Hanoi. Tired, late and hungry we Ho down some dinner at the hotel.

Next day we start at 9:00. What We Say Today:

1) The Ho mausoleum. Ho Chi Mihn isn’t actually buried here. He’s laid out for all to see. After a line up of twenty minutes or so we, along with several thousand others, get to file past him for all of 30 seconds. In preparation for our viewing we’re advised to stop talking, remove our hats etc... We also have to leave all of our bags outside and go through Xray security. Not exactly sure what the big deal is. Doesn’t seem to me that much harm can be inflicted on a guy that’s been dead for 36 years. I choose not to argue the point with any of the several dozen armed communists staring coldly at us. I also choose not to try out any new Ho jokes.

2) Museum of history

3) Some kind of pagoda.

4) Another market.

We learn some Vietnamese today. When our driver has to slam on the brakes to avoid hitting another car, our guide exclaims “coy chit”. He won’t translate it for me but I suspect it means “good fortune” or “thank heavens”. Over the next day or two, I practice my new knowledge with several locals. Mixed results.

Back to the hotel for a beer in bar. Dinner that night at Vines, a restaurant that turns out to be owned by a Canadian. (What are the odds?) Young waiter wanted to practice English. Diverse menu and cheap as has all the restaurants been in Vietnam. Great meal for around $36 all in, consisting of two entrees, wine, mineral water, dessert, coffee,

Early morning next day. Have to get to airport for flight to Bangkok.

Vietnam:

Pros:

• Very inexpensive. Including tax and tip, Lunch for two can be five or six dollars, dinner can be $30 with drinks.
• People in the service industry are extraordinarily pleasant and helpful.
• Variety of weather to appeal to all.

Cons;

• Smoggy (in the cities)
• Dirty
• Crowded
• Truly dangerous to drive.(lost 8,000 last year to motorcycle accidents)
• Limited appealing dining / bars etc. outside the hotels.

Editorial in lieu of fun stuff. I won’t make it a habit. Honest.

Vietnam bothered me. The country has so much to offer and has so much history yet remains backward and underdeveloped. We see school children everywhere in uniforms, laughing and playing and enjoying life as children do everywhere. But there are no smiles on the adult’s faces. They look tired, resigned to nothing much. It seems as if all of their energy is spent on just getting through the day. Poverty is everywhere. We wonder why this is and we’re quick to blame the political system. But then we realize that in places like Canada over the last 150 years we’ve been privileged to live in a world where we can debate whether Medicare should pay for liposuction or if social assistance should cover the higher channels on cable TV. Conversely, Vietnam in the last 150 years has been abused and repressed by France, China, Japan, America and certain of it’s own political leaders. Yet the people are not bitter. This may be because they are truly forgiving. Or perhaps they’re just too tired to be angry. It’s only been a very few short years since the world has tricked itself into thinking it is being charitable in welcoming Vietnam back to its fold. It’s too early yet to see if the country can be reclaimed for its people.

As we drive to the airport we’re struck by an extraordinary metaphor. On one side of the highway are impoverished farmers manually working their rice paddies in the blistering heat. On the other side are brand new factories built by Honda and Canon, no doubt employing very cheap labour. Vietnam seems stuck between its future and its past; yet neither seems quite right. I only hope its political leaders and trading nations can discover the right way. I hope that in a generation or two those laughing school children will be able to hang onto their hope and optimism into their adult life.